Time To Move Up

Re: Time To Move Up

Joe Fleming

>Bill,

There are a lot of good brands to select: Henry Taylor, Robert Sorby, P&N, Hamlet, and Crown. There are also "store" brands: Packard sells "Packard" tools which, I think, are made by Hamlet. Craft Supplies, USA sells "Artisan" which are made by Henry Taylor. All are M2 HSS or equivalent.

There are other brands and other steels which are more exotic, but you will not go wrong with those listed above.

For a roughing gouge, the 1-1/4" size is pretty standard. Most makers have one in this size range. P&M's is unique in that it is milled from solid stock where the rest are forged. This makes the P&N tang a little more robust.

For a skew, I recommend a 1" with a rectangular cross section. 1" is a good size for many uses. 3/4" would be OK too. I don't recommend smaller because you have less effective cutting edge. (As you know, with a skew, you need to cut on the bottom half of the cutting edge to avoid catches. A shorter edge means less working space before getting into the "danger" zone.) Largwer tools are just too big for most applications.

Oval skews are flimsier because there is less metal. They are also more difficult to sharpen.

I prefer a square edge on my skew vs a round edge. Some like the round edge to make the skew roll beads easier. I like the square edge because it gives a definite pivot point when rolling a bead. A round edge effectivelt causes the radius of the cut to change as you roll.

Joe Fleming - San Diego

Re: Time To Move Up

Fog Tanner

>The majority of my spindle turning is done with skews. I have them from 3/8" to 1", with duplicate 1/2". My favorite is the 3/4", has a wider bevel and get a cleaner planing cut. The 1" is used to take a lot of material off in a hurry and roughing down square stook. All mine are ground at 40 degrees, thats just what works for me.

I do use some shallow gouges, 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" for those cuts I can't make with a skew. I have at least two of each with different grinds for different jobs. I use the 1/2" for hollowing, folowed by a "Raffin" 3/4" scraper. And I do have a 3/4" or 1" roughing gouge for those odd shaped fence posts that I turn a lot of. Basicly depends on the type of spindle turning you want to do. I also use the shallow gouges in turning bowls. I also have an assortment of specialized tools which are only good for a specific function or cut. You have to have at least one of those that you only use once a year for that one cut. But, that is the sad life of a tool junkie - at least I don't turn and drive - I try to keep my habit to the safe confines of my (choose one) studio/workshop/garage.......

Brand wise, most of my tools are Henry Taylor. I have one M4 9/16" shallow gouge, which I use for roughing bowls, one A2 steel scraper (Serious lathe), and the rest being M2 steel. I have used the Sorby tools and they seem to be just fine. I have the Sorby spiraling and texturing tool. I have also used the Glaser skew and found my Henry Taylor skews worked just as well for a lot less cost. The main reason I use the Henry Taylor tools, is the place I buy my tools has a large selection of Taylor tools and only a handfull of Sorby. I also like to buy the steel and make my own handles for what suits me, and have only found that in they Taylor steel.

I think what really helps you in spindle turning is to always have truly sharp tools, so you can get "that cut straight from the tool". There are some pieces that I turn, that I don't sand. If I have to sand, the tool is dull. I use both an 8" dry grinder and the Tormek, with the Tormek being my prefernce for razor sharp edges.

More than you asked for and you will be getting a hundred different views. They are all free so take them for what they are worth. All depends on your personal needs and what works for you in what you like to turn.

Good luck,

Fog

Re: Time To Move Up

John Lucas

>Bob

I own mostly Sorby and Henry Taylor. They fit in my budget. I've been happy with them. I'm thinking of trying a Hamlet 2030 0r 2060 just to see the difference but they are quite a bit more expensive.

I don't find the oval skew flimsy at all. I like the rounded edge. I've played with a lot of skews and don't see enough difference to change. I like the 1" or 1 1/4" for most work but have a collection of 1/2" to 1/4" and smaller. I like my 3/8" skew made from a spade bit. I use it for all my small work especially ornament finials.

I have a 1" and 1 1/4" rough out gouges. I use the 1" constantly but have is sharpened differently than most rough out gouges. Most rough out gouges are sharpened with a fairly thick angle. I sharpen my 1" gouge with an edge somewhere around 35 degrees. This lets me turn most of the spindle with this one tool. My mirror handles are turned almost to completion with this tool then one quick pass with the skew and I'm done.

Re: Time To Move Up

David Galloway

>By the way, there is an interesting article on the merits of the different types of skews in the current AAW magazine, written in the point-counterpoint style. My teacher Nick Cook squares off against Alan Lacer. I'll let you decide who wins the argument, as I am a bit prejudiced. It's worth the read,

As to tools, I have found that the best quality pays off in spades. I wasted some money early on buying the bargain bin specials, only to be disapointed. Any of the above brands are fine. The Packerd brand are less expensive and do as good a job as any other tool....their service is superb!

Blessings,

David Galloway

Re: Time To Move Up

Bob Elliott

>This the time of year that Woodcraft has their sale of 10% off everything in the store. If you have a store nearby, you could pick up some Sorby or Crown tools.