>I am finding that more and more of my forms really require the use of hollowing tools and techniques.
Can any of you give me some simple instructions that will help with the frustration level and keep me from breaking something (mainly me) while I learn?
We're talking about mostly undercutting rims of open bowls and the like. I have a Sorby multi-tip, but am not opposed to buying a new tool or two.
>There are many hollowing tools on the market that will help with undercuting of the rim of a bowl; however, if you are only making bowls and not hollow forms, Crown Tools makes a tool for undercutting the rim of a bowl. It is about the least expensive solution to the problem.
>Rev, this is pretty basic but when I first got a hollowing tool I had no idea that the toolrest had to be back on the straight part of the shaft, not up on the gooseneck. I was in another turners shop complaining about how hard hollowing was and showed him what I was doing. After he picked himself up off the floor from laughing so hard, he showed me the proper way to use the tool. It still isn't the easiest thing in the world, but using the tool right helps.
>Doug, welcome to the next step of the obsession. In contrast, this is where I came in to the craft. I had been seeing Ellsworth and Jordan display their work in magazines for twenty five years or so when I began to turn. That was my own fascination, and dream. I learned to turn bowls way later.
I suggest you look on a number of websites, and see the tools David Ellsworth makes and sells, for example. I recommend that if you can do it yourself, to do it. This way you benefit both from the toolmaking and the subsequent usage of them. The learning curve isn't too long, and the trip is well worth it. After all, it's the journey, not the destination, right?
A few tips for anyone starting out in hollowing:
1. A good lesson from an experienced turner is worth three times the money they ask, period. It will save so much blood, sweat and tears, as well as a lot of wasted time trying to figure it out. Sort of like trying to learn to play competitive golf on your own, only more dangerous.
2. See tip number one.
No kidding.
Any number of tool setups are now available, and after using a tool in a class, I would say most people would gain enough savvy to be able to make a much better informed decision on which avenue to follow down this slippery slope. I make some, buy some, and use quite a few in my work, which is quite diverse, but I mostly use Kelton Hollowers, and highly recommend them for students. I combine them with other tool systems as well, for larger items.
3. Start small, so you don't have so much torque to contend with at the beginning.
>Rev, I'm pretty new to hollowing, too (turning for that matter). I've been doing a lot of it though. I went through a few stages pretty quickly.
First, I used that Sorby multi tip scraper with the little hollowing tip. I used that once. Decided that if that was what hollowing was, I'd be a bowl turner.
Then bought the large Kelton handle and large hollowing tools. What a difference! But still pretty much tough going.
Now I've got the Kelton Hollowing rig and there is no comparison. I look forward to hollowing, and it takes almost no time compared to the other methods I've used. No strain on my hands, muscles, etc, and great tool control. Even got me that cool little laser pointer doo-dad, no more calipers!
Anyway, back to your question. I wouldn't go quite so far as I have to undercut rims, as mentioned there are undecutters available from a number of sources, and I'm sure they're not too bad.
I have had good success undercutting rims with the Ellsworth grind tools, very good success in fact. Coupled with an appropriate scraper I'd bet very little else would be needed.
My bet is, though, once you start hollowing, you'll want to keep on doing it, through tiny little holes.
>I went thru the same toll evolution process, except I did a fair abount of hollowing with the Sorby multi-tip tool. I just put on a 24" rosewood handle in place it the stock handle (which was almost useless). While all of my hollowing is now laser guided and torque arrested, the Sorby is still handy for undercutting rims.