Finish Question

no harm in testing on something else, eh?

Mike Schwing from Maryland

>Whats the hurry? The longer you let that Waterlox cure the better off you'll be putting something over it anyway. Test the combo on something else first.

How do you like that high gloss Waterlox compared to the standard formula? It has me intriqued, The standard can be buffed to a high gloss but if I'm going glossy anyway, why not start with it?

Re: no harm in testing on something else, eh?

Peter Teubel

>I have used the high gloss Waterlox and find no difference in the gloss finish it imparts vs the standard Waterlox....if you buff the surface. I think the high gloss formulation is designed as a finish that is glossy WITHOUT buffing.

Waterlox Red or Green?

TDaniel

>There is a lot of difference between the Waterlox in the red can and the gloss (in the green can). Both dry fast (too fast) but the red can stuff soaks into the wood while the green pretty much stays on the surface. I use these as ingredients rather than as they are out of the can. Waterlox is also available in a blue can for marine use and I think it has some UV block in it but perhaps someone who knows for sure will tell us.

TD

Re: no harm in testing on something else, eh?

Donna Banfield

>Hi Mike

I've used the high gloss finish on just one other piece, a very spalted natural edge maple bowl. It was just 10 minutes this side of being too punk to turn and has some worm holes, too. I haven't buffed it yet, but like Peter said, the finish on it makes it look like I haven't buffed it yet! When I do, I hope I won't need sunglasses to look at it ;-)

I guess I'll just try a test piece, and see how it looks. The box elder is 23 inches in diameter, meaning a lot of resanding to remove a blotchy finish.

Donna Banfield

Re: Waterlox Red or Green?

Donna Banfield

>It's the Green can. I'm curious, what do you mix it with? And I agree, that it dries quick. Especially in this warmer weather, I have to work fast to get it spread evenly.

Donna Banfield

Re: Waterlox Red or Green?

TDaniel

>To slow it down I mix some Tung Oil and Mineral Spirits (or turpentine) with it.

I wouldn't dilute it

Ellis Walentine

>I'm not saying your method doesn't work, Terry, but I can't help thinking out loud about this. Pure tung oil added to Waterlox would definitely slow down the drying process, but unless I'm mistaken it would also throw off the oil/resin formulation of the product and lead to a softer finish that might never quite dry the same. Plus, since tung oil is not inherently glossy, it would lower the sheen of the finish.

I wish I really knew what goes on at the chemistry level.

Ellis

Waterlox

TDaniel

>Waterlox is almost the ideal turner's finish. The problem is getting it to flow out evenly. It becomes tacky just moments after applying and, if wiped on, the ridges left just won't smooth out. The ideal remedy would be to get some with less driers in it but that is not cost effective. The next best thing to do is dillute the driers by adding MS and Tung Oil, just enough to give a bit more drying time. This lets the little ridges flow together. Works for me until I can find something better.

TD

Re: Waterlox

Russ Fairfield

>Or, you can mix your own. There are no driers, and, heaven forbid, it takes overnight for it to dry.

Has Waterlox changed?? It has been several years since I have used it, but I don't remember it drying so fast that I had problems with applying a thin dry film.

The only reasons that I have never used much Waterlox was cost and availability.

Re: Waterlox

Bob Hackett

>You`ll want to be real careful about not getting Waterlox or any other finish on your skin repeatedly.I know Al Stirt used it for 10+ years before he got a real bad reaction from it.Now he can`t even be in the same room with it.

Mainely,Bob

Re: Waterlox Red or Green?

John Trant (aka Boxes-n-Bowls)

>I use Waterlox all the time and never have the problem of drying too fast. In fact, I rub it into about 20 bowls (one at a time) then go back to rub in a little more, then finally I wipe off the excess. To get the first coat to penetrate deeper, I may dilute it with MS or naptha (faster drying).

If you are having trouble with it drying too fast, you must have an old can (read partially polymerized) of Waterlox. It definitely has a life time particularly if it is not properly stored. As it gets old/oxidized, it is noticably thicker, dries quicker, and develops more of a film than I want.

John