How many faceplate threads should be engaged?

Re: How many faceplate threads should be engaged?

Bapa

>Dale

Think about it, as it Turns it gets tighter and tighter and trighter - always tightening.

You are not clamping two pieces together. The only way it can come off is when you reverse directions that is why on their chucks the have the set screws. Just hope you can get it off when the time comes. I would suggest a nylon spacer/washer it will make that a lot easier.

Have Fun

Bapa

Re: How many faceplate threads should be engaged?

Dave Peebles Lyons, Ohio!

>Hi Dale,

I had not thought about this before. But I have a Oneway lathe, and I just checked out mine. Yep, it only engages about four threads before it bottoms out.

No worries, it will be solid as a rock. At least in my experience.

Best wishes,

Dave

Oneway spindle

Larry Hancock; Ardmore, OK

>Dale,

Oneway faceplates and chuck adapters only have about four threads because the spindle on a Oneway lathe only has about four full threads. The shoulder side of the spindle has an area for locking the set screws in the faceplate to the spindle so it will not come off when reversed. The faceplate will hold very well.

Larry

Re: How many faceplate threads should be engaged?

John Lucas

>Dale

My engineering friend says you only need 3 threads to have full strength. We were discussing this when I was tapping threads into a thin piece of metal.

Re: How many faceplate threads should be engaged?

Barbara Gill, Remlik Virginia

>I used the 4" Oneway faceplate on my Nova without using the set screws. I turned some really heavy blanks (60#) and never had a problem.

Re: How many faceplate threads should be engaged?

Whit

>John's right. 3 or 4 threads are all that are needed. Also, the chuck bottoming out on the spindle shoulder is exactly what is supposed to happen. That shoulder-to-shoulder contact is wherfe ALL of the energy transfer takes place. Once they meet it will not get any tighter so there should be no problem getting the faceplate off, thus no washers needed and washers, even precision ground steel ones allow vibration and vibration is one of the enemies. The only time the threads can get excessively tight is when the faceplate or chuck doesn't bottom out on the spindle shoulder. Then the threads do indeed get tighter and tighter making removal difficult. Then a washer might be necessary, but only a hard steel, precision ground washer, not a soft one like wood, plastic or rubber which will flex. A better solution, however, would be to grind the spindle a bit shorter so the shoulders can seat solidly.

Thanks, guys! Just the info I needed...

Dale Sherman - Pompey, NY

>I thought it might be okay, but there's a lot of unused threads in the faceplate that concerned me. Now I can mount some big wood without worry.

Dale

Faye-Scott spindle...

Peter Teubel

>My old pattern makers lathe's spindle has ALOT of threads. In fact, some faceplates won't fit because of the length. I had some custom made from 1/2" thick plate (cost a little less than Oneway's faceplates but not much) with a center hole that was threaded to facilitate the use of a drawbar.

Re: Flies in the face of a lifetime of experience.

Al Crandall

>All I have is training and not learning. Learning gets you lots of hours in a classroom and some letters to put after your name. Training gets you a few hours in the classroom and a lifetime of on the job experience. The eyebolts we used to lift our medium sized molds were 1"-8 and were rated for 18,000 lbs. each provided they were screwed in the full depth. Every eyebolt of every size was manufactured with thread length 1 1/4 times the diameter. All my life I was taught that full strength wasn't achieved with less than one diameter of depth. I tapped tens of thousands of holes in my lifetime, and everyone of them had at least 1 diameter of full thread engagement. But the stresses you can put on the threads of a lathe spindle, with the attachment tightened against the shoulder, should fall well within the range of safety with only 4 threads engaged.