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Car wax?

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Car wax?

#1

Car wax?

David Hammind, in Powder Springs GA

>Trying some waxes on some of my peices, after rubbing out a tung oil finish: I've tried a very old cabinet maker's wax, and it gives me a nice luster, with a smoother than before feel - then I tried a high grade Meguiar's car wax: the car wax doesn't seem to give me any more luster or shine, but it feels better; it's much smoother. So, my question: is there a problem using car wax on wood? I've read a couple of warnings about getting it on vinyl, plastic, etc - do I have a problem? Thanks in advance, once again.

David - finishing bowls as fast as I know how.

Re: Car wax?

#2

Re: Car wax?

Mark Kauder

>David,

I have use Meguier's pure liquid carnuba wax over lacquer and poly finishes with good results.

The biggest problem that I have with any wax, is that they almost always cloud up a big over time with humidity (like we have down here).

IMHO - waxes have traditionally used over oil finishes because of the poor protective qualities of oil finishes. It was the best they used to have. Today we have other high quality finishes, and waxes are more trouble than they are worth.

But -all that said, an automotive way will work fine over most any wood finish.

Mark

Re: Car wax?

#3

Re: Car wax?

Sean Troy

>Awhile back I saw a post here with a picture of a hollow form waxed. Fantastic looking. So this is what i now use. After an oil rub and letting it dry, I finish with gloss lacqure. When thats dry I buff with 3M Finess It. After that I use the new Platinum Turtle wax and then buff. It's a finish like no other. Good luck. I wish I could remember who posted the 3M Finesse message to say thanks for the tip. Sean

Re: Car wax?

#4

Re: Car wax?

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>David,

Auto products are fine, but there is an issue: most of them have silicone compounds incorporated. This is only important in the context of a redo as the silicone will have to be removed completely before refinishing can be done as it will prevent most new finishes from sticking. While shellac can be used as a "barrier coat" to seal remaining silicone and allow other finishes to adhere, multiple coatings may build too high for the look you want. In a material like porous woods, you can see how it would be difficult to remove all traces of a silicone wax, even with sanding. I would suggest, therefore, that you only use the auto waxes on "filled pore" finished pieces, and try other waxes, like carnauba or some of the micro-crystalines for open pore woods like walnut, ash, oak, mahogony, etc.

As always, your mileage may vary.

Mark

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Re: Car wax?

#5

Re: Late reply

David Hammind, in Powder Springs GA

>Thanks guys for the info - sorry I'm late in replying, but I've been really busy.

My finish right now consists only of oil; Watco Danish oil, and Waterlox. I sand all my peices with oil, so anything open grained does get filled. Thanks for pointing out about the silicone content Mark, I think that's part of the slippery feel that I'm getting, but I'm not sure if I'll stay with that car wax because of the silicone... For now, I want to stick with oil, because of the benefits I see in an oil finish, but I'll definitely continue experimenting!

Thanks again.

David

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