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Sanding Sealer

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Sanding Sealer

#1

Sanding Sealer

Steve Church

>Hi,

Just a quick question from a newbie. Only been turning since February. Totally hooked though. This forum has been a great source of both information and inspiration.

Seem to be having trouble applying cellulose sanding sealer on larger turned items, to get an even coat. I'm having to work extremely quickly before it goes off. I'm just using kitchen tissue and rubbing it well into the wood grain. The results I am getting are either patchy or uneven where new is over lapping old.

How do you guys do it ?

Re: Sanding Sealer

#2

Re: Sanding Sealer

Darryl Hansen

>Steve, You will get additonal answers I'm certain. I apply lacquer sanding sealer with a brush (sometimes I spray it too). I use a Wooster Shourtcut brush (the one with china brisltes got it at Lowes). I let the sealer soak in and dry then sand to the level I feel confortable with. Then apply either semi glass or gloss , two or three coats. I know that some will suggest you wipe the sealer off but I have better luck letting it soak in. I put the brush in foil and that keeps it soft. I've been using the same brush for about 6 months with no cleaning. I'm lazy...Darryl

Re: Sanding Sealer

#3

which product?

Mike Schwing from Maryland

>Steve, which product are you using? I use Mylands Cellulose Sanding Sealer. It is a lacquer based product and I use it for a final finish. Search my name for some of my workpieces and you'll see how nice a finish it can make.

I don't worry about how it looks when applied because I always do something else to it afterwards.

I have three methods, depending on what is around at the time and what I'm trying to accomplish.

Wipe on one thin coat, let it dry. I use shop rags folded into a small applicator and apply it with about a 25 cent piece sized surface. When its dry (about 10 minutes) I turn the lathe on to about 600 RPM and burnish it with a paper bag, or maple shavings (if available). It gets glossy smooth and the irregularities from applying the stuff disappear. You can also use your fingers but it takes practice to not burn them as the lacquer melts under friction. (though I find the fingers method produces the highest gloss and wonder if its the oils that cause it). Maple shavings seem to produce the next best finish, paper bags the third.

I apply three coats in this manner. You can get a really really nice finish this way. If you're not very careful you can still get some rag marks in the finish at this point, but any of them can be dealt with quickly on buffing wheels.

This finish can also be applied in as many or few coats as you like. It doesn't necessarily produce a "filled pore" type of finish but I prefer to allow some of the grain to show through in the finished product.

Hope this helps some.

Re: Sanding Sealer

#4

Re: Sanding Sealer

Eduardo Sarmiento Hall

>Hi there just apply the coat let it dry and then start the lathe and sand with steel wool ,apply another coat then do the same until get the finnish you want ( make sure you turn the lathe both direccions then apply wax ( I use shoe polish NEUTRAL ) and buff with a clean cloth presto is done I have use this method for 20 years and with shellac it works too if I want to darken the wood I put the shellac first then the sealer Try it you will see it works"

Re: Sanding Sealer

#5

Re: Sanding Sealer

Steve Church

>Thanks Guys, I'll try some of these methods out over the next few days. Once again, the forum is a great source for learning. Books are still good but you learn many more techniques when there are a selection of poeple writing.

Cheers

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