>I asked about whether I should get a bowl gouge the other day. I am making a vase type thing for my wife to keep pain brushes in. I want to make a plinth or pedestal type base for it. You guys said I did need a bowl gouge. Ok, so now I'm wondering if I should get the Sorby plain bowl gouge or the fingernail grind? I didn't realize that there were two options. Thanks for the help. Oh, to qualify...I'm very much a rookie at turning. I will probably never turn a bowl. I make furniture and little things like this. So I do need to build all the turning skills, but bowls aren't my thing. Oh, also, what size would be good for stuff like this? I was thinking 3/8"? Thanks.
>..."probably never turn a bowl"...sorry, can't help but chuckle. See if you can still say that a year after turning that "vase thing" for your wife.
There are many different options for turning tools. My desire is not to confuse you, but I wish no one had ever given me a standard "bowl gouge". I spent a lot of time frustrated with it, especially on the exterior of bowls and other forms. Upon discovering the swept back fingernail type grind, as in the Ellsworth signature gouge (and many others), my turning took a turn for the better and I've never picked up a "bowl gouge" again.
As for size, my standard tool is a 5/8". My backup is a 5/8". I will use 1/2" if trying to get into tight spaces, but the few 3/8" tools I have chatter too much for my preferences.
Perhaps someone with better abilities to express himself will chime in. I think I just confused even me. Sorry.
>Since you are a beginner, I suggest a 3/8" bowl gouge since it is easier to handle than the larger gouges. When you have more skill (and confidence) to hog out lots of material quickly, then a 1/2" or a 5/8" gouge is nice to have. The 3/8" gouge will give you a nicer finish, it is easier to handle, and will keep from grabbing too big of a bite if (when!) you have a catch. If you are turning an end-grain hollow form (a vase with the grain running parallel to the ways of the lathe), then a spindle gouge can be substituted for a bowl gouge. If it is in face plate orientation (i.e., the grain runs perpendicular to the ways), then you will find the bowl gouge preferable. In either casy you will need some form of hollowing tool (boring bar) but that is a whole other post.
>Get the plain grind (its probably cheaper) and try it out. If you don't like it, put a fingernail grind on it. Since all my tools are custom ground to my liking, I don't care what grind it comes with.
Make an Oland tool and a lathe sharpening setup. See my web page for details. Both are minimal cost and my favorites for turning bowls. Why is the sharpening setup a turning favorite? Dull tools will discourage you fast and lathe tools are somewhat more tricky to sharpen than a plane blade or a chisel.
>I visited our local ww store and all he had was the Sorby regular grind. I just ordered the Sorby 3/8" swept back bowl gouge. I use a Tormek for grinding and I've reground a spindle gouge before - took forever! Anyway, once it gets here and I start hacking with it, I'll ask some more questions of you all!
While I have no problem with the information posted so far, I want to get back to the question you asked. I'm not sure you want a bowl gouge at all. Since you described a vase thing for holding brushes (or was it pencils ?), that sounds to me like a taller, deeper shape, perhaps like a flared pencil cup (?) I would use a bowl gouge to shape the outside, but you could do that with a stout spindle gouge as well. I think for hollowing out the interior, you could consider drilling to depth (on the lathe), and opening up the interior with a round nose scraper, or a box scraper, though this all depends on the shape you want, and the size of the opening.
If I were making it, I'd shape the outside with a bowl gouge, drill to depth, then hollow the inside with Ellsworth-style boring bars, cleaning up the surface with scrapers. If end-grain, I'd hollow it with a hook tool.
I'll also agree that if you make a bowl, or something like a bowl, it probably won't be your last ! Best of luck...
>I have made both a straight and a hook type Oland tool based on Darrell's instructions. I had material on hand so 0 cost and they work great. I used part of a 3/8" allen wrench for the tip and it is the only weak point as it dulls really quickly. Even made the hook tool with an arm brace type handle. Now talk about dumb: I just ordered a "real" tip from Packard. I have two tools, why did I just order one? Dumb, dumb.
