Working with spalted wood question.

Re: Working with spalted wood question.

Jhd in NC

>I could not get the glue and water to work. I mixed it very well before I put the wood in. The next morning the glue settled the bottom of the contaner and turned semi hard. I waited a week tryed to turn it. It stayed together very well but the tare out was very bad. little chuncks match head sized all over the piece. I would have liked to try it on different woods but I could not get the glue to re-mix with the water. "elmers white glue." I sure I did somthing wrong and hope some will post. Thanks John

Re: Working with spalted wood question.

JamieDonaldson

>I reduce tear-out and checking by sealing with lacquer base sanding sealer, often cut slightly with acetone to enhance penetration and curing time. It also helps absorb some of the moisture remaining in the wood.

Re: Working with spalted wood question.

Doug Trembath

>Jamie, how clear can you get the surface with this treatment? I tried the glue as well, and a number of other chemical options, and it comes down, for me, to being able to cut it cleanly, in very small passes. I can get it cut and sanded to perfection, but as I wipe on the finish, the particles come away, leaving a surface like torn grain anyway. I'm real picky about my finish, and I worry about the archival quality of many of these chemicals. I've considered a laquer based spray technique, but am just in the process of that evaluation. Wasn't it the Lundquists that pioneered spalted wood turnings, or at least formulated a technique of grinding and sanding to the final shape instead of cutting?

Doug Trembath

Studio in the Woods

Jhd in NC and glue not mixing

RevDoug

>Your predicament came up in last night's chat. Russ suggested, and I agree with him, that you had one of two situations. Either the glue you used was old, or your mixture was off. You need fairly fresh glue so that it will mix. The solution that is recomended is 50/50. For what ever reason, other solutions just don't work. Not enough water and the glue will not mix in nor will it saturate the areas you are concerned with.

Let us know what you figure out.

Turn 'em round,

RevDoug

Re: Jhd in NC and glue not mixing

Bill Hale / The Wood Spinner

>I keep an old , yard sale , blender in the shop. I use it to grind very fine sawdust filler but you could also use it to mix the glue water mix. Possibly you did not get a real good mix.

Good turning and be safe

Bill

good thought Bill

RevDoug

>

Re: Working with spalted wood question.

JamieDonaldson

>Mel Lundquist was the 1st turner that I am aware of to do much turning with spalted and punky wood, and he didn't always strive for a smooth surface. I may go thru several applications of acetone thinned lacquer sanding sealer followed by a light shear/scraping cut with a sharp sideground gouge before achieving a tearout free surface.I wipe rather than spray the sealer, and this allows visual inspection as each coat is applied.Another benefit is not loading the paper as some other sealing materials will, and it is a good clear undercoat for the Deft finish I often use on light colored woods.