>I own and use the Kelton large (and medium) hollowing tools with the big heavy duty handle as well. The noise is so loud I simply cannot take as big a bite as the tool will safely allow, consequently making hollowing a very time consuming and frustrating process. It seems that the larger the workpiece the louder the noise.
Last night I resorted to wearing my shooter's earmuffs while hollowing and that made things quite nice, I could work in the manner I felt the tool could handle with no ear discomfort.
For those of you who also hollow by hand, do you have this issue? What tools are you using? Do you have any suggestion for me, or is this what I'm to live with, or perhaps I'm doing something wrong. My only turning lessons come from WC, so its a good possibility I'm doing it incorrectly.
For those with a hollowing rig, do you still have to contend with a noise issue?
>Now this is a new one for me, as I've never given thought to any hollowing tool being noisy. I suspect your experience is likely related to differences in the dry, already hollow, segmented forms you mostly work with, and perhaps the shape of the specific form you were hollowing. It almost sounds like the specific hollow form shape was serving as a resonator and magnifier of the sound and channeling it out the mouth directly in your direction. So the question would be if the sound is equally objectionable for all types of forms you attempt to hollow.
For some, a hollowing rig might be perceived as a little less noisy, as one can stand less in direct line of the mouth.
I'm afraid I don't have any specific suggestions, other than to see of other shapes result in less perceived noise, and that perhaps a tool that would have a smaller area of contact with the wood (like a 3/16 inch tool bit) might be a little quieter.
I don't know if it's a problem for me or not, as I always wear hearing protection to protect what little hearing I have left. However, I found the ear muffs with the built in radio are very enjoyable to wear! Not only does it reduce the noise from various tools (dust collector, shop vac, sanding, etc.) with an NRR of 25 decibels , but it is nice to hear music, too. I highly recommend these! I got mine at Woodcraft...Peltor is the brand.
>Well, Mike, it seems the answer to your question depends on a couple of factors. Is the noise based on the rattling of the shaft on the toolrest? If so, you could consider ensuring that you are doing the cutting closer to the lathe center. I often make a bunch of noise when really digging the waste out in a hurry, especially if the tool is way out over the rest. The vibrations will also deaden your hands and wrists, as well. If this is the case, concentrate on adjusting the cutter by slightly rotating the tool along its axis to improve the cut, as well as the height of the cutting tip as described above.
Make sure you stop and clear out the chips and dust more often, because the accumulation of debris will often solidify by sticking together, and deflecting the tool tip. Can't say how many vessels I exploded due to this factor because I was too impatient to remove the debris. I use a shop vac and air hose blower to quickly evacuate the vessel, and often.
Next, the choice of rotation speed with different woods can make a large difference. I think sometimes it's better to slow down, with any hollowing system. On the other hand, in general I have found that the faster you go, and the smaller the bite you attempt to take, the smoother and more level the cut will end up being. You mention it's quite bumpy and irregular on the inside, so here's what I'd suggest.
Raise a new burr on the cutting edge, and ensure it's all the way around the tip. Raise the speed a little, and gently apply the tool at center height and level, and take light cuts on the high points, feeling your way along as the tip progresses. Train yourself to adjust the orientation of the tip until you feel and hear the characteristic "nice" cut. You'll notice the difference.
Best practice is to hollow a bowl with the tool, or a wide mouthed vessel, so you can see the difference as well. Remember that you can shear scrape with the burr by, again, rotating the tool along its axis a little, resulting in a much smoother surface. Easy does it, though, until you become accustomed to the tool. Honestly, I find woods like Bocote some of the easier woods to hollow, resulting in a very smooth finish inside. But then, I've hollowed many, many vessels.
Keep at it, Mike, it'll come quicker than you think.