Photo Problems

Re: Photo Problems

John Lucas

>Sean

did you send a photo? Did your camera require +1 exposure compensation to get the exposure right. If you are judging the exposure on the monitor of your camera it may be off when it goes to the computer. With all that white you may very well need +1.

As far as the yellow, I'm not sure. All non photo quartz lamps that I've checked are a little yellow on the tungsten setting but it is so slight that you can barely see it. Did you have the room lights on? Household lights are really yellow and they could change the color.

It could very easily be your computer software. I have only played with a few amatuer programs and they were pretty automatic as far as color adjusting. If your program has color adjustments you should be able to correct the color.

If none of this helps send us a photo of the piece and maybe Jamie and I can figure it out.

Re: Photo Problems

Sean Troy

>Hi John, I was able to correct the color with Paint Shop Pro 8. The pictures I,ve taken before with the same background and just sunlite came out great , less the shadows. There was Flouresent lighting in the room 15' above, but none directly on the piece. I did not use flash. I know I'll have to play around with it but I know there is lots of knowledge on this forum, so I thought I'd ask. I would post a pic but I can't seem to figure out how to downsize the pic to be accepted on this forum. I'll learn. Thanks, Sean

Re: Photo Problems

Lloyd Johnson

>A 500W tungsten bulb is bright, but it is still 'cool' on the Kelvin scale. Daylight at noon is 5500 degrees Kelvin and Tungsten is 3200-3400 and so the light is more yellow than sunlight. A way to visualize this is to think of steel when it is heated. As it begins to glow, it is red like a candle or a sunset. As it gets hotter, it turns yellow. At 5500 degrees Kelvin it becomes white and if it gets hotter yet, a blue cast will be seen. The filament in a bulb is just like that piece of steel.

So the brightness of the light only affects the exposure of a picture - not its temperature.

One thing that is confusing is that you'll often hear of pictures that have a yellow/red cast as being 'warm' when in fact, the opposite is true.

If your digital camera has a White Preset option, here is an experiment you can try. Take a cone coffee filter and put it over the front of your lens to defuse the light. Now take a picture using the same light source you've been using and use this as the white preset. If your camera has this feature, it should make an automatic adjustment so that subsequent pictures will look like they were taken in sunlight. If this experiment works, keep the filter handy and always make your first shot a white preset using it.

Re: Photo Problems

John Lucas

>Sean

The Flourescent light may or may not be the problem. The simple test would be to turn it off and shoot something. If it's still yellow then we need to look elseware.

Is the cloth you used for panels yellow? I doubt that's the problem. I've been using panels at work that haven't been washed in years. They are noticeably yellow but I still get gray paper.

I'm not computer literate but what I did was to save the image at different sizes and DPI and see what size came out when you preview the message. I'm still trying to understand the Pixels per inch thing. My Boss in his smartelic way answered with "well it's 72 pixels per inch of course". Well I've posted on several different sites using the same image size and they all came out different so I'm still confused.