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Another question about hollowing tools

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Another question about hollowing tools

#1

Another question about hollowing tools

Stacey S

>I want to thank everyone for their response with my previous question. Since there were several responses suggesting the Kelton hollowers. I have looked at those and I like the look of them. And for now the price also(cheaper than the scorpion,stewart,etc) but How do I know what size hollow forms the different size kelton hollowers will do. Their web site nor any of the catalogs never say. I am guessing from the responses I should first get either the 1/2 or the 5/8 set but if anyone could tell me what their max suggest reach(depth and diameter) would be that would help me out a lot.

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#2

Steven Antonucci

Make your own

steve antonucci

>If you search the forums, you will find numerous posts from people (myself included) who made their own. My hollow set cost me about $10, and each tool took about 20 minutes to make.

In essence, all you need is a steel bar (available at a home center), a drill bit, and a set screw to secure a cutter. I recommend you buy the cutters, but you could make your own here as well.

Steve

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#3

Dick Hines

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

Dick Hines

>Look at it like this, the deeper vessel you want to make the bigger hollowing tool you will need. They come in , I think , 5 sizes from mini up to 3/4". The minis will do vessels to about 4-5" ..deep and the 3/4 will go down to 18-20". Kelton has 3 handles to fit the different tools. One handle will fit two sizes of tools.

You have lots of choises.

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#4

Re: Make your own

Stacey S

>what kind of cutters would I need to get and where could I find them. I wouldn't mind trying this although I would have to get a tap and die set also. I have seen at some places cutter sets for metal working would those work?

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#5

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

Stacey S

>thanks that is what I needed to know.

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#6

Do you know of a link for making my own tools

Stacey S

>Do you know of a link on making my own tools. I think I might give this a try. It certainly would be worth the try anyway

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#7

Re: Darrell Feltmate *LINK*

Chuck Ludwigsen

>A key website to visit is Darrell Feltmate's website. I got most of my plans and ideas for hollowing tools as well as sharpening systems from him.

You can check out the pics of the tools I have made at my website as well, Life Takes a Turn. Go to the Shop/Tools/Jigs page.

Have a great day.

Chuck in Memphis, TN.

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#8

Re: Do you know of a link for making my own tools

John Lucas

>Stacy

contact me and I'll work with you on making your own. I've made a bunch and have figured out several techniques that are fairly easy. John

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#9

Steven Antonucci

My Post is in the turning Archive *LINK*

steve antonucci

>http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/archives_turning.pl?read=24978


Try clicking this!

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#10

Kelton and cutting tip

Pascal Oudet

>with the 1/2" set, probably around 5-6 inch deep. (I use them usually for smaller pieces, in the 3" range). that's why I suggested the 5/8" set because you were talking about bigger pieces.

for home made tools, you can take the round part of an old metal drill bit (which is HSS) and grind it. If you don't have a tap, you can try gluing it to the metal bar with epoxy glue. (I have never tried, but found this in a magazine. to modify the bit position, heat with a propane torch)

Last point since you mention cutters used in the metal working industry. most are carbide and don't work very well for wood.

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#11

Re: Kelton and cutting tip

Stacey S

>Thanks. I just wanted clarification on those kelton's. I will keep an eye on those cutters. I thought I had seen some that were steel and not carbide.

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#12

Re: Another question about hollowing tools *LINK*

Phil Joines Krum, Texas

>Enco, MSC, McMaster-Carr, etc. sell the round tool bits I use.

The end is ground round with a 20 degree bevel using a small block of wood with a 1/4" hole and a thumb screw to keep the bit from turning. A 1/4" hole is drilled into the shank, strait into the end for one tool and at 45 degrees for another. You will probable want a bent neck tool for cutting under the top. You'll need an Acetylene torch or forge for that. Use medium CA glue rather than a set screw to keep them in place. It's easier and heating to end with a propane torch will let you replace the bit when it's too short to use. The dust from woods high in tannin can rust the threads in set screw holes making it impossible to back them out.

The size of shank is determined by how deep you want to go, 5-6" for 1/2, 9-10" for 5/8, etc. The round bar is MUCH cheaper from a metal supplier than from the Borgs, like $10 for 20' rather than $9 for 3'. Cold Rolled works fine.

The bars in the pic are for a captive system. The bent tools WON'T work for a hand held tool but the strait and 45 deg. bars are the same.


img

Enco 1/4" tool bits

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#13

Re: Do you know of a link for making my own tools

Chuck Ludwigsen

>John, I wouldn't mind getting a copy of that email ;-). I'm looking to build a mini-hollowing set to use to make Christmas tree ornaments and such.

Your thoughts?

Chuck in Memphis, TN.

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#14

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

Stacey S

>Thanks to everyone again. I went to Harbor freight today and found a small box of hss cutters. it has 1 round 1/4" ,1 square 1/4", 2 smaller square bits 3/8 and 1/8 i think and 1 flat piece. I also went to lowes and got the round bar. I will remember in the future though to go elsewere to save money. I also got a piece of bip and some window screen tubing to make a handle. With the bits what angle do I need to grind them too. I am think right now to have one mounted in the end and then one on an angle like the elsworth for starters(to keep things simple) also at what angle does the hole for the side bit need to be?

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#15

Steven Antonucci

Answer to both: Doesn't Matter

steve antonucci

>Doesn't really matter, most angles cut.

Mine is set at ~45 degrees and straight on (same bar, single set screw holds cutter in either position.

As far as cutter angle, I guess it's about 60 degrees or so. Cuts like crazy.

Steve

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#16

Re: Do you know of a link for making my own tools

John Lucas

>Chuck

I was going to find out what he needed and help. I don't have an article on making the small hollowing tools yet. I should have done it when I made the tools for Tony but didn't. I may be able to put one together. I'm working on a handle making article for the TAW web page and could probably add small hollowing tools with a little more work but it will have to be a while. This is the end of the semester and I get backlogged big time.

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#17

Bigger is better....sort of

Peter Teubel

>I made my own Jamison-style hollowing rig using 3/4" bar and a 1/4" cutter. Worked good. But then I got the 3/4" Kelton hollowers and they worked GREAT. I have the smallest and largest set of hollowers. The smallest is for Christmas ornaments. I use the largest set for everything else. With a piece mounted in my Stronghold chuck, I can hog out the insides VERY quickly.

This piece was about 4" in diameter and 6" tall. Took all of about 30 minutes to bring the walls to 1/8" thickness (laser guided, of course) using the big tools.


img

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

#18

Re: Another question about hollowing tools

Bill Hale / The Wood Spinner

>I use the Dennis Stuart handle and have made some realy big bars. I have one bar 48" long and another 60" long. The 48 is 1 1/8 Diameter and the 60 is 1 1/2 Diameter each being stainless. I had a local machine shop turn one end to go into the handle and the other end tapered and drilled on the end to receive a 1/4 in cutter. They also drilled and taped the taper for the set screw. They are heavy but you can reach deep with almost no effort.

Good turning and be safe

Bill

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