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Anchorseal Question?

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Anchorseal Question?

#1

Anchorseal Question?

George Van

>I have been painting my roughed bowls with Anchorseal inside and out. I noticed that a lot of the maple bowls have some black spots appearing that I am assuming is a form of blue stain fungus or more likely a mold.

Is anyone else having this experience?

Will it turn out when finishing after the blank is dry?

Am I to only coat the end grain portions of the roughed bow and leave the side uncoated?

Any advice will be appreciated, George

Re: Anchorseal Question?

#2

Re: Anchorseal Question?

TDaniel

>George, coat all sides, inside and out. Some woods you can get by with just a coat on the outside and some (like Mulberry) need two coats. After about 4 or 5 months you can put it back on the lathe and make it round again, cutting most of the anchorseal away. Then give it another 4 to 6 months before doing the final turning and finishing..

TD

Re: Anchorseal Question?

#3

Re: Anchorseal Question?

Brad

>Has anyone done a study to determine that coating a roughed bowl with Anchorseal really helps? I just read Richard Raffin's book on turning bowls, he states that he never coats his roughed bowls with any kind of wax. So, the question is, does this really help, or is it something that is done because it sounded like a sensible thing to do?

Re: Anchorseal Question?

#4

Because it works!

TDaniel

>Brad, I used to wrap my bowls in paper and then put them in a corrugated box or plastic bag. That worked but I had to change the paper every day for a couple of weeks or have mildew and no drying. Russ suggested coating with the Anchorseal and I have learned, "if Russ says it, believe it" so I tried it on over 100 roughed out bowls; I lost two. The two I lost were not due to the Anchorseal method but the wood itself. Later I tried it on some fresh cut Mulberry and those cracked but my neighbor turned some of the same Mulberry and his cracked too, without the Anchorseal. I would say that the Anchorseal drying method is one of the safest methods of drying available to us.

TD

Re: Anchorseal Question?

#5

Re: Because it works!

Brad

>If you only lost 2% you're doing better than Raffin, he states he looses about 5%. Thanks for the info!

Re: Anchorseal Question?

#6

Re: Because it works!

George Van

>Thanks for the reply Terry.

I have not had one crack appear yet since I have been fully coating the bowls. So far I have 61 roughed and sealed. I do get the stain though. Do you think this will turn away when I turn to final size?

George

Re: Anchorseal Question?

#7

Most will...

TDaniel

>but some may not. Just consider it "character" and keep turning.

TD

Re: Anchorseal Question?

#8

Thanks

George Van

>

Re: Anchorseal Question?

#9

Re: Anchorseal Question?

Bruce Kantelis

>Would anyone share their experiences with Johnson's Paste Wax as an alternative to Anchorseal?

Re: Anchorseal Question?

#10

Re: Anchorseal Question?

George Van

>Hi Bruce,

I have never used it. You may get better response posting this question as a new subject.

George

Re: Anchorseal Question?

#11

Re: Anchorseal Question?

W.C. Turner

>Wally Dickerman uses johnson paste wax.

Re: Anchorseal Question?

#12

Re: Anchorseal Question?

Mike Rubes

>Hi Bruce,

I know primarily use Anchorseal to coat my wet bowls, but I have used Johnson's paste wax for a few in the past. I got an occasional surface crack, but it seemed to work fine. To be honest, I cannot say that the anchorseal works any better,, but it sure is easier to apply!

Good luck,

Mike

Not a lot of experience either way in Apex, NC...

Re: Anchorseal Question?

#13

Re: Anchorseal Question?

marc

>Raffan probably doesn't have central heating where he lives so there wouldn't be the same drying stresses from the difference in humidity.

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