Buffing Waterlox question

5/10/04, 12:25 PM #1

Mike Schwing from Md
Guest

Buffing Waterlox question

Mike Schwing from Md

>I have become VERY fond of Waterlox finishes for my turnings. To this point I have used the standard waterlox and several/multiple coats, either sanding a bit in between every other coat or applying with steel wool. When dry I've been rubbing them out as if they were furniture using my tried and true steel wool/beeswax/orange oil combo. Produces a wonderful low gloss sheen.

BUT I've seen turnings recently that have been gorgeously finished using Waterlox buffed on Beall or similar systems. I'm specifically thinking of the ones posted recently by Dave Peebles.

I noticed that Waterlox comes in two varities - standard and glossy.

Does anyone use the glossy and has anyone buffed out a standard Waterlox (and do they have a pic of it?). Dave, which are you using?

Re: Buffing Waterlox question

5/10/04, 3:26 PM #2

Dave Peebles Lyons, Ohio!
Guest

Waterlox

Dave Peebles Lyons, Ohio!

>Hi Mike,

I am using Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. It is the one in the red and yellow can. It says medium sheen on the can.

On another note, The last time I tried to buy some direct from Waterlox, the shipping was almost as much as the product. They are located in Cleveland, just a couple of hours away.

I finally found it in gallon cans at my local True Value hardware for less than it was listed on their web site.

I do decant it into smaller containers when I get it. I once left the top off a gallon can and it started to jell on me.

Dave

Re: Buffing Waterlox question

5/12/04, 2:37 AM #3

raisinsawdust
Guest

Re: Waterlox

raisinsawdust

>Dave

You did not give any hints on how you apply it to your work - can we have a bit more detail?

Thanks

RSNDST

Re: Buffing Waterlox question

5/12/04, 5:38 AM #4

Dave Peebles Lyons, Ohio!
Guest

Process

Dave Peebles Lyons, Ohio!

>Sure.

On most of my work I power sand with the Tim Skilton sanding pad. I usually start at 120 and progress through the grits, 120,180.220.320.and 400. On certain pieces I will finish off with a disc cut from the white synthetic pads made by 3M and others. I find that they will stick just fine to the velcro on the Skilton pads.

With the Waterlox, I apply one coat and continue to keep it wet for as long as an hour, sometimes longer. I want it to soak in as much as possible. If it gets a little sticky, I just put a little more on and then wipe it dry.

I usually wait 24 hours and do the same thing all over again. This is done every day until I feel I have the amount of sheen that I am looking for. This usually happens after four or five days. On most pieces I will let it dry for a week or more. It then gets buffed with the Beall buffing wheels.

That is pretty much it. I have been happy with it so far. I do try to get several pieces ready to go at a time. I like to do as many as I can at one time.

Best wishes,

Dave

Buffing Waterlox question

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