Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Cole Jaws
Brad
>Another question from a new turner. I purchased a Super Nova Chuck with a set of Cole Jaws. I recently finished the bottom of a bowl using these jaws. When I took the bowl off the jaws, there was a black spot where each of the rubber "holders" contacted the bowl. These spots were the devil to sand out! Has anyone else had this problem? How did you deal with it? Should I replace those rubber holders with something like cork?
Re: Cole Jaws
Russ Fairfield
>You have just discovered the No. 1 problem with using the Cole-type jaws. Skid marks on the wood has always been a problem, and especially if the black rubber has ever been in contact with lacquer thinner. The manufacturers all claim that marring the wood is no longer a problem. Evidently this is an advertising claim and not a reality for some of them.
The only real solution that I know is to either make your own tips from pieces of clear neoprene tubing slipped over short lengths of wood dowel that have been drilled for the screw, or go to Craft Supplies and purchase a set of rubber bumpers for the Axminster chucks. The Axminster bumpers are a white rubber and they are the only ones that I know of that will not put black marks on the wood under any conditions.
Making your own has the advantage that they can be any length you want.
Having said all of this, I have been using a set of the jaws for several years, with black rubber bumpers, made by Oneway. I have not had a problem with skid marks on the wood.
Re: Cole Jaws
John Lucas
>I use blue painters masking tape. I put it on the bowl between the rubber and the bowl. It's easy to pull of and doesn't leave residue on the finish.
Me too
Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL
>
stretch plastic
Mike Schwing from Maryland
>I wrap mine in stretch wrap plastic. It moves with the rubbers, stays on for several or many uses, and does not mar the work at all.
Re: Cole Jaws
Chuck Ludwigsen
>I might be the very definition of Obsessive-Compulsive.
1) I put a paper towel over the opening of the bowl before chucking it into the Cole jaws.
2) Then I losely tighten (oximoron?) the Cole jaws to hold the bowl.
3) Then I bring up the tailstock to pin the bowl and free up my hands.
4) Then I tighten the Cole jaws to where I feel they will hold fairly well but not crack the wood.
5) Finally, I wrap the bowl and Cole jaws with stretch wrap, effectively "taping" the bowl to the Cole jaws.
I remove the tailstock and turn the bottom.
Probably takes more time to set up and undo than it does to turn the bottom, but I get good quality bottoms. �
Your methods may vary very much.
Chuck in Memphis, TN.
Another Paper Towel Vote
Loose Tenon
>I too use the paper towel method and have not had a problem. The outside of my bowls are finished except for the foot when I use the jaws. I lay a towel in the jaws and secure the bowl and tear off the surplus. I snug up the jaws and give the bowl a final push, you ususally hear a squeak, and complete the tightening. The final push seems to help the bowl run true.
Loose Tenon
Re: Cole Jaws
Peter Teubel
>Replace the rubber things with ones from Oneway. Their rubber bumpers do NOT mark the workpiece.
Re: Another Paper Towel Vote
Richard Allen
>I also use the paper towel method most of the time. There are other bunpers that are less likely to cause marking. The bumpers from Vicmarc are the best I have seen. I don't much care for the chuck body but the "cole" jaws from Vicmarc are the best I have used.
Thanks
Richard