Truing a dry, nat. edge bowl?

Re: Truing a dry, nat. edge bowl?

walta100

>Put a waste block in your chuck turn the end to fit the inside of the bowl. Then put a patch of leather between the bowl and waste block, bring up the tail stock pressure until will not slip and true up the tenon.

Re: Most of the time I don't even bother with the

Al Crandall

>Most of the time I don't even bother with the waste block. I just open the jaws of my chuck as wide as they will go and use it for the jam chuck while applying pressure with the live center. This method works for finished edge bowls as well as natural edged ones. Any minor dings on the interior will be turned away later. I haven't tried this yet on anything in the 22" range, but it works fine for 16" and smaller.

Re: Truing a dry, nat. edge bowl?

George Van

>Thanks for the replies. I just breathed a sigh of relief. I have about ten of them roughed out and never gave remounting a thought.

George

Re: Truing a dry, nat. edge bowl?

Darrell Feltmate

>George

I generally turn bowls without a chuck so this may be a bit outside your need. Why not flatten the end of the existing tenon on a belt sander for good glue adhesion and attach a glue block with hot glue? I have friends who turn up to 36" bowls with hot glue blocks. Ken Bullock does it regularly with 16" and 24" bowls.

Re: Truing a dry, nat. edge bowl?

George Van

>Darrell,

I have a hot glue gun that I bought and never used as I lacked confidence in the grip. From your experiences I will have to give it a try. It would be handy to have one more trick to use against the �Turning Demons�.

My understanding is the wood must be dry to use hot glue, is that correct?

George

Re: Truing a dry, nat. edge bowl?

Stuart Johnson

>Ken Bullock melts the hot glue in an old electric frying pan and then dips the end of glue block. I don't know if using a glue gun would give sufficient coverage.

Re: Hot Melt

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>Which grade/type is used? Some set harder or softer; both could have advantages in different situations.

Mark

-2=mail

Re: Hot Melt

Stuart Johnson

>I don't know. I did have an email from him once and he mentioned it uses a cheap bulk brand.

Re: Truing a dry, nat. edge bowl?

Brad Vietje

>George --

If the diameter will fit between centers, holding it between a driven block of wood, (or other material) and the tailstock is the safest way to go, as the bowl is captured between centers.

I have a number of scrap wood disks, from 4" to about 10" in diameter that screw onto the "woodworm screw" that fits my chuck. I've rounded the edges over, and I re-shape them as needed. The warped bowl may only contact the disk on two sides, but the tail center makes the 3rd point of contact for a good, secure hold. I place the largest disk that will fit on the chuck, and use it to drive the bowl.

I also have a few solid chunks that never became bowls because there were cracks I couldn't turn away. I've turned these to a solid bowl-sorta shape (after gluing the cracks), and made dovetail recesses and tenons on both ends (wider and smaller), so I can drive most bowls with a single block, and grip it securely with 3 different jaw sets. Taking a few minutes to make a friction drive block out of a piece of waste wood is a good investment in finishing bowls quickly.

Safe Spinning,

Brad Vietje

Thetford, VT

Re: Truing a dry, nat. edge bowl?

George Van

>Brad, I have a few bowls that are good candidates for jam chucks.

Stewart, I will also have to check into the bulk glues, I like the idea of a frying pan.

Thanks, George

Re: Truing a dry, nat. edge bowl?

Gary Evans

>The frying pan is a good idea. The problem I've had with using hot-melt on a relatively large surface is that the first glue put down is already skinning over by the time you get glue all over the surface.

GE