Drying Cherry logs

Re: Drying Cherry logs *LINK*

Shawn - in CT

>I've been working with a lot of this size cherry lately. The process is pretty much the same no matter the species though. While you can leave the stock in log form, you run the risk of checking if 1) it dries too fast and 2) there is still a pith. So, remove the pith: see Bill Grumbine's site (link below) for a good method of sawing a log. Then slow the drying process by coating any exposed wood (you can leave the bark on) with something to slow drying - you've done this with a diluted glue. There are many options but the best consensus seems to be Anchorseal or similar product (you can get a lot of info on these type products by doing a search of the archives here on WoodCentral) - you can pick up similar stuff at WoodCraft if you have one nearby. Coat side grain once and endgrain twice. Now, best is really if you rough turn the bowl after sawing and then seal the rough bowl (make sure it is even thickness all around). Note that if the wood is in a very dry area it will dry faster and you have more chance of cracking - of course keeping it in a moist area just slows the process of getting to a finished bowl. Others may chyme in with ideas of microwaving, etc. for drying and some with ideas of detergent soaking to reduce cracking but I think the method I've described is the most tried and true...at least it works for me. Good Luck!


http://www.enter.net/%7Eultradad/logcutting.html

Re: Drying Cherry logs

Bob Smalser, Seabeck, WA

>Coat the ends again and put the billets ourdoors under cover for the first year...or even under water.

From the saw straight to the shop dries high-M/C woods like cherry and maple way too fast.

And the article posted is a good one....cut billets and throw the pith away, if you want toi minimize checking.

Then look below you on the thread, "Air Drying Stacks".

Re: Drying Cherry logs

Mike Schwing from Maryland

>What Bob said, and a little of my experience.

I have many (20 or so) large black cherry logs sitting outdoors until I can use them. Quite a few of them had a crack at the pith before I got to them but after anchorsealing the crack does not become larger. The cracks are generally in the pith anyway, and the attitude they take determines how I cut the pith out when it comes time to take the log down to bowl blanks. Since these logs are mainly non-figured cherry they'll be bowl blanks, I always cut or turn the pith out regardless, so the crack doesn't bug me. I keep them off the ground, stack, and anchorseal them.

If I brought these logs into the house directly after sawing, they'd check pretty fast, as Bob said. They'll never dry out enough on their own to once turn a bowl out of them anyway, so I don't risk the checking by bringing them indoors.

If you must bring them indoors, I'd recommend sawing them into oversized square blanks and double sealing them with anchorseal. That way you can cut any checking out of the blank before you put it on the lathe.

I find anchorsealed cherry blanks do very well indoors, logs, not so good.

Re: Drying Cherry logs *LINK*

Darrell Feltmate

>I am going to second the vote on leaving the logs outside, cutting them to blanks, and sealing well. You might find something helpful on my website under "Preparing green wood."


http://www.aroundthewoods.com

Re: Drying Cherry logs

Russ Ellsworth

>Thanks for all the good advice. The logs are in an unheated shop with the end sealed but not the sides. I will cut the logs lengthwise and remove the pith and reseal. It also sounds like Anchorseal is the way to go. Again, thanks to all who steered me!!

Darrell, Link Bad?

Dominic Greco in Sunny Richboro PA

>Darrell,

I think the link you posted is not working. Can you try again? I'd like to read up on what you've written about this.

See ya around,

Dominic

Re: Darrell, Link Bad? *LINK*

Darrell Feltmate

>Dominic

Try it again. It works for me. Here is a link to the home page.


http://aroundthewoods.com/index.shtml