>I just bought a new Sorby 3/8" Bowl Gouge with the fingernail grind two weeks ago. Try as I might it jumps around and catches quite badly. I have never had tool instability issues before and have many other Sorby tools that I am very pleased with. Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated.
>Oh boy does this sound familiar. I picked up a larger version of that gouge and ran into the same issues. Had some terrific dismounts as well. Very exciting stuff.
I rented the Ellsworth video from the Wood Turners catalogue folks. The things that David Ellsworth does with this gouge are amazing. I worked on a couple of bowls after watching it and now I'm convinced I need to watch it several more times.(I still have it) I did have another dismount last night, but it wasn't so bad. I think it will end up being my tool of choice once I have enough practice time in.
>While most of us use a side ground gouge, there is a big learning curve on them. When I first sideground a bowl gouge it was just awful. The video suggestion is good, also keep practicing with it. One more thought, make sure that the wings are not concave, Thats a common sharpening mistake and makes for a terrible cutting experiance.
>Get some hands on training. Find anyone who uses a side grind gouge and ask if you can visit. In 5 minutes you will be 1000% better and in an hour you will wonder what all the fuss was about.
Basically what you are doing is riding the tip instead of the bevel.
For the inside of the bowl:
Starting at the rim open the flute to the 2 o'clock position. Press the heel of the tip of the bevel into the spinning wood. Slowly swing the tool (keeping the flute at 2 o'clock) so that the cutting edge starts to make contact with the wood. This will be characterized by dust appearing on at the tip of the tool. You are now riding the bevel.Push the tool across the spinning wood towards the center of the bowl keeping the same angle on both the flute and the tool. You should have shaved a wisp of wood off the face of the bowl. Try again with the tool swung ever so slightly farther. You will notice that you have a small cut. Try to maintain that depth of cut all the way across the bowl.
I know it is difficult to understand in words. Pictures are better and video is better yet. But hands on instruction is 10 times better still.
>I figured it was operator error... The gouge was honed before it's first use, and the material I have been practicing with is bone dry. Your advice on instruction has been well taken. I'm heading over to my buddy's house this evening with the new gouge and a small gloat of red cedar logs someone gave me yesterday. I'll keep you posted on my progress.
Not to worry, a little practice, and you'll be all set. The bevel is in a different orientation than what you're used to, so you have to break old habits, and build new ones. The Fundamentals are still the same, though: Tool on rest, bevel (only) touches wood, change angle very slowly to bring cutting edge into contact with wood, then guide the tool through the arc you want to cut. Problem is learning just where that darned curved bevel is, exactly.
I'd recommend 2 things: 1. Practice with green wood, if possible, just make a big mess on the floor (smiling all the way) 2. Try using the gouge on its side, with the flute facing the direction of the cut. I find that I can lay the tool over on its side while the bevel is rubbing, then bring the handle toward you until you get a curl at the tip, then push through the cut. Then try it again with the flute about 20 degrees or so CCW from horizontal (say, around 2 O'clock) -- should work like a charm with some practice.
Cutting with the bevel and cutting edge toward the wood, with the flute facing upright, takes a lot more practice, and you might not want to do this until the wood is smooth and round -- irregularities are hard to deal with until you are used to this cut.