finishing question

Re: finishing question

Russ Fairfield

>You can apply the next finish over the Boiled Linseed Oil as soon as it is dry enough to come off as a powder when buffed with a piece of 0000-steel wool. How long that is will depend on the age of the oil, room temperature, humididity, and porosity of the wood; but at least 2 or 3 days.

To use a nitrocellulose lacquer over the linseed oil, buff it with the steel wool to remove the surface glaze from the oil, and apply the first coat of lacquer with a brush and then wipe it all off until dry. This will remove any oil residual and prime the surface. After than you should be able to use lacquer with a spray application.

Or you can put a boundary coat of shellac between the oil and the lacquer.

All varnishes except waterbornes are compatible with Linseed Oil. Buff the surface with steel wool, and apply the varnish with no other surface preparation.

If you are wanting to use a waterborne lacquer or varnish, you are too late; oil and water do not mix. I have never had any luck with application of a waterborne finish over an oil, no matter how long it had aged, or what I did to prepare the surface.

Re: finishing question

Joel Hunnicutt

>I've never found much advantage to oil under lacquer. Oil really darkens the wood, which lacquer doesn't do. Folks tell me that oil makes the grain "pop", but I personally can't see much difference.