>Sometimes I need to show people that I can do spindle work, too (not a well as Russ, but then again, who does? ;) ).
The local gallery that is nice enough to sell some of my work, seems to sell more of my "practical" woodwork (hair pins, bottle stoppers, etc) than the "Artsy" segmented bowls. So, I decided to see if Candle sticks will make a go of it.
These are Cocobolo, finished with lacquer. They are 12" tall, w/ 4" dia bases.
I have been using this design for about 4 years. I like it, but I would like suggestions on what features I could add to make it about 3" taller. You can only go so far with lengthening the tapers.
>Lovely candlesticks, Mark. I suggest that you grind a taper on a 7/8 inch spade bit to match the shape of the candle. I learned that from Rude Osolnik who did that on his famous candlesticks. I think that the inserts cheapen a fine piece of work.
The base, cup and transition elememnt are fine as tey are. Don't do anything to them. Just elongate the double recurved stem in the middle as required for whatever height you want. There will be no problems with proportions except that the S-curve in the stem. As long as the larger diameter is about 1/3 the overall length of that element, there should be no problem with it.
You will always have matching candle holders that way, and tall and short can be mixed and look good for doing it.
A couple other suggestions for the candle holder. You might want to cut a tapered candle-cup and make a larger and more dished drip ring around the cup. Even the drippless candles drip a little.
A reasonable taper is a 3/4" hole 1" deep, mark around the rim at 7/8" or 15/16", and connect the two with a plunge cut with a parting tool.
If you want to get high-tech about it, Woodworkers Supply of New Mexico, or wherever they are called, had a tapered reamer for candle holders at one time. If they still have it, you can make a nice fitting cup. If you want the catalog number I may still have it.
You could also make a similar candle-cup reamer from a 7/9" spade bit. This will be cutting along the entire length of your ground taper, but it work well if you run it slow enough.
Thanks very much for the suggestions. I am going to pick up some more wood for Candlesticks this weekend, and I will try and incorporate your suggestions.
>I bought the candlestick bit from Woodworkers Supply I think. I'll have to look. I ground 2 spade bits and even though I was as careful as I could be they chattered like crazy. the Candlestick bit is only listed on Woodworkers supply web site. It isn't in their catalog.
I agree with russ on the size. you could stretch the taper where the bead is quite a ways and not change the overall appearance. Nicely done.
>My wife and I are both oogling over them. She loves the way they look and I'm in awe of the skill it takes to make just one of them, much less two that match.
>Very impressive work Mark. I will not attempt to add to any of the suggestions as to lengthening them, except to say that I agree with just elongating the middle part.
There are pros and cons about the brass inserts, mainly on the issue of morons and fire prevention. There is a product called flame seal which I keep meaning to investigate, but never seem to get around to. It is supposed to be a liquid which impregnates the wood so that it will not burn if it comes in contact with fire. Additionally, it is not supposed to inhibit any finishing. I do not know about that, but it sounds good.
>Wally, Russ or... Do metal inserts prevent a neglected candle from burning or scorching a candlestick? I guess I could let a candle burn down and find out. If scorching is prevented maybe short lengths of thin copper pipe expanded to fit flush with a tapered hole would prevent fires and without a flange not detract from the wood's beauty. Bill, probably water glass (sodium silicate) is the ingredient in the fire prevention lotion. Arch
>It seems to me that as soon as the candle melts to down inside the cup, the puddle of melted wax always drowns out the flame. That is what usually happens. I see the metal liner as having no value other than decorative, or maybe giving the buyer a perception of safety.
The problem is that there is nothing that we can do to protect people from their own stupidity. If they are determined to set fire to the wood, they will do it, and the metal insert will do nothing to prevent them from burning down their house.
I thought it interesting that the number one cause of house fires is candles.
>Bill, I looked into it and all I could find was minimum of one gallon @ $60 per gallon. I lost interest real fast. A gallon would last me 20 life times at least.
>Balance the cost of that gallon of fire proofer against the cost of one lawsuit because somebody burned down their house and the candle holder that you made gets blamed for it.
The price of one gallon is why you need to get together with a bunch of your turning buddies and split the cost. Besides, like Russ says, the price is as nothing compared to a lawsuit. Heck, the price is nothing compared to one of my liability premiums!
