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Bees Wax

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Bees Wax

#1

Bees Wax

Chris Meyer

>Hello All,

I recently turning a bowl and on a whim tried bees wax as a finish. My technique was basically to rub a piece of bees wax on the moderately turning bowl and then use a clean rag to heat up and buff the wax. The resulting finish was fantastic. The wax created a deep warm luster that looks great.

This is not a finishing technique I have found a lot of information on so I am looking to the wisdom of the all knowing WoodCentral (you all) for the Pros and Cons of this. i.e. will the finish last, is the wax to soft to be an effective finish on decorative pieces etc.

Thanks in advance for any advice on this.

Chris

Re: Bees Wax

#2

Re: Bees Wax

Mike Rubes

>Hi Chris,

I don't know how durable the finish is, but for all of my bowls that I turn to be "food-safe" usable bowls, the only finish I use is walnut oil followed by bees wax. I agree that this gives it a very nice looking finish. Again, I cannot really comment on the durability of the finish since these are bowls that I use so they get wiped out on occasion and more oil applied as needed.

Good luck,

Mike

Bees are buzzing in Apex, NC!

Re: Bees Wax

#3

Re: Bees Wax

John Trant (aka Boxes-n-Bowls)

>Bees wax is very soft and is for appearance only. It offers no protective shield and wears away quickly. It is definitly food safe (as are most finishes) but must be refreshed after each use. I know a turner that uses wax as a quick finish so that his high volume production items look good, at least until they are sold. After that, he doesn't care if the sheen quickly dissapears ("it looks 'woodie'").

John

Re: Bees Wax

#4

Re: Bees Wax

Bill Hale / The Wood Spinner

>Chris

I use walnut oil as a first coat and follow up with a mix of walnut oil and bees wax.

I sand the piece to 400 and do a final sand with oil and 600 grit. When sanding is done I burnish with the oil and then burnish with the mix. Polish and done. Looks great and can be replenished with oil.

My mix is about 40 % bees wax 60% oil. Heat in the microwave until liquid, mix and let cool. This makes a med soft wax, similar to a minwax finishing wax.

Good turning and be safe

Bill

Re: Bees Wax

#5

Re: Bees Wax

Paul Norton

>I use beeswax a lot as a final finish. It is not a hardwearing finish but it is one that owners can renew themselves when needed. Just remember to inform the customer.

Re: Bees Wax

#6

Re: Bees Wax

Ray Taylor

>Richard Raffan recommends bees wax and mineral oil. I've used this for cereal and ice cream bowls and it provides a nice finish. I wrap a small chunk in a cotton cloth, apply pressure to the piece and lubricate the cloth with mineral oil. After drying, I buff while still on the lathe.

As John mentioned, it does not provide much protection and must be re-applied if used often.

Re: Bees Wax

#7

Re: Bees Wax

adrien

>As Ray Taylor notes, Raffan is fond of Beeswax for a finish and he shows how on his tapes. Sam Maloof mixes beeswax with Linseed/Tung oil (50-50) for a finish. A spoon carver I know gives a beeswax mineral oil paste in a pharmaceutical vial to each customer. One can also use Turpentine-beeswax in paste form if you're not a food purist to replenish the easily rubbed off wax. Beeswax was used as furniture polish many years ago.

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