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Oneway Talon Chuck

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Oneway Talon Chuck

#1

Oneway Talon Chuck

Brett Sherwood - Richmond, IN

>I just bought a ONEWAY Talon Chuck and adapter today for my lathe. This has been a somewhat long anticipated purchase for me due to the expense. I have between 150 and 200 Oversize (5"-11" length x 2 3/8 - 3" base width) Chess Men and Pepper Mills already turned with spigots left on both ends ready to finish turning the tops and part the bases with this new chuck. The finishing process requires nothing more than light pressure with a 1/8" parting tool and some minor rounding to the tops with a skew , and sanding. Here's my question... What is the maximum length of work that I can hold with the No. 2 jaws without additional drilling of the spigots and the use of the woodworm screw to support the piece?

Thanks,

Brett

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#2

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

Ruth

>Brett,

You're going to love that chuck! To answer your questions (in my opinion at least):

The 5" pieces are about as long as you want to go if you're going to use a parting tool anywhere from midway to end (not chuck end). I made a mitten or bootie to fit over the point on a live center and bring the tailstock up for support. The chuck will hold the piece, the problem will be chatter when working the end.

Drilling the spigots or use of the woodworm will have no effect on the chatter or wobble at the end. You need the support in the center or on the tail-stock end.

Ruth

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#3

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

John Trant (aka Boxes-n-Bowls)

>In general, I agree with Ruth if you plan to support the chess piece by the chuck alone. You nab be able to go a bit longer if you take light cuts and support the turning with your other hand. Even just a little support from your tail stock and the use of a skew will give you a preferable finish for the top right up to the very last little nub.

You should be fine using your parting tool on the base but I would use my skew. The skew just gives a better cut (cleaner, and with less torque on the unsupported turning).

John

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#4

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

Brett Sherwood - Richmond, IN

>I picked out a turning at random. Let's say I cut off the top spigot of this piece making the overall length roughly 7" and the maximum width 2 1/2". I use the tailstock to get the tenon down to finished size. Then I remove the tailstock for sanding. (this particular bottom tenon is not at absolute 90 degrees to the work but I will re-cut it square to take that out of the equation.) Will it be possible to sand the piece in the chuck with great care?


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Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#5

ONEWAY Stronghold Chuck

Brett Sherwood - Richmond, IN

>I guess I bought the wrong chuck. Thanks Ruth and John for your experience with the Talon Chuck. It was definitely against my better judgement to get the Stronghold due to it's near 8 lb. weight wearing out the bearings on my el-crappo Delta lathe. Thank goodness I never mounted the Talon on the lathe, and will be able to return it to Rockler and order the bigger one.

Thanks again everyone for your input on this question.

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#6

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

Greg W. in NC

>Brett,

I use a Talon chuck all the time to do my peppermills, and without any problem at all. I use it for drilling my 1" holes in the base, using the #2 jaws. I don't do my mills the same way you do (I cut the tenon, part off the top,then drill the bottom section, so that I will have the hole dead center.) I do primarily 7" mills. It is very easy to drill using the Talon, and I don't even need to use a spindle steady. One thing that helps is to make sure the tenon you grab isn't too deep, as you want the shoulder of the tenon to butt up against the jaws. You don't want the end of the tenon to bottom out so that the shoulder doesn't touch the jaws. Again, you really shouldn't have any problem holding something like this. If you get chattering, it won't be because of the chuck!

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#7

Re: ONEWAY Stronghold Chuck

John Trant (aka Boxes-n-Bowls)

>Don't get me wrong, I think you have the right chuck for your lathe and the talon is a high quality chuck. In fact, the Talon chuck will work just as well as the Stronghold for this type of turning. I would recommend the Stronghold only if you were doing *large* bowls but not for the relativiely small spindles you are talking about. Your problem is simply the physics of leverage since you are tring to hold the spindle by one end and work on the other. Just take light cuts, rubbing the bevel, and you will be fine. If you get a significant catch, you are likely to knock the spindle off center or completely out of the chuck.

With that said, and seeing your spindles, I see no problems. Use the tailstock to hold the distal end of the spindle as you complete the top. Use a small cup or small point center to hold the top by the remaining tenon, cut it close, sand with your first couple of grits, finish cutting it free with a light touch with the skew, finish sanding, part off at the base, and you are done. I see no problems; go for it but slow the speed a bit.

John

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#8

Re: ONEWAY Stronghold Chuck

Peter Teubel

>FWIW...

I had a Talon and Stronghold for about a year. Both worked fine. Last month the Talon started binding up and was difficult to adjust. Disassembling and cleaning didn't help. I returned it and got a new one. After one month the same thing was happening again. I find it hard to imagine that I could "oval" the chuck like I did with a couple of SuperNovas. Granted I tighten the jaws as much as humanly possible without using a "cheater bar", but I would think they would manufacture the chuck to account for those stresses. No matter...I returned it and got another Stronghold since the first one I had has taken all the use/abuse I could possible dish out with no problems whatsoever.

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#9

Re: ONEWAY Stronghold Chuck

Ruth

>Peter,

I've had my Talon for 2 yrs. and it started binding up a few months ago, too. I just thought it was diry, and like you, I cleaned it to no avail. I doubt Kevin would replace it after this long though. I'm glad you mentioned this as I just thought it was me.

Ruth

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#10

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

John Lucas

>Brett

I used to turn items like that all the time and never used a chuck. I turned them between centers. Turned small tenons on each end and then sanded and applies some sanding sealer. Then I would cut the tenons down as small as possible and carve them off.

Now I do use a vicmarc chuck about the same size as the Talon. I work about the same leaving the tailstock up as long as possible but can get by with a smaller tenon. When I've got everyting turned I cut the tenon off the tailstock end and finish turning that area taking light cuts.

Then I sand everything but the bottom. I will part down most of the way and then use the toe of my skew to clean up the bottom. I'll sand this. Then I part it off the rest of the way and carve or sand away the rest of the tenon.

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#11

I'm amazed again

Bill Howatt

>Over the past years I've read more than my share of posts on various forums and newsgroups. The ones having to do with chucks always had nothing but praise for the Talon other than the open back can get dust in it and if you lose the key you have to buy another one for $$.

Now in this thread I am reading about Talons going oval and binding due to some kind of tightening stresses.

I think its funny how these things pop up all of sudden out of the blue.

Bill

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#12

I have to ask "The Question"

Russ Fairfield

>WOW!! How much force are you guys using on the chuch wrench?? Are you adding a length of pipe to the handle?? Or, are you just using all of your strength?? The next thing I expect to hear is that you are twisting the shafts of the chuck wrenches, and breaking the gear teeth.

Whatever you are doing, you are using way too much force. Tightening the jaws until the chuck bends or breaks will not hold the wood any tighter. The limit to the holding abaility of the chuck is the strength of the wood that is being held. Anything in excess of that is too much.

You might reconsider how you are using the chuck before making any claims about it being of poor quality.

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#13

Re: I have to ask "The Question"

Greg W. in NC

>Russ,

I have to agree....I have used my chuck now for a couple of years, without any problems, and I crank it down pretty tight.

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#14

Re: I have to ask "The Question"

John Trant (aka Boxes-n-Bowls)

>I also agree. It is far better to use the wrench to snug the tenon up tight through one hole, do it again through the other, go back to the first one, and keep doing this until it tightens no more. This applies even and very firm pressure on the tenon without inducing tendonitis, broken gears, or ovaled chucks.

John

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#15

Re: I have to ask "The Question"

Bill Grumbine, Kutztown PA

>I have to wonder about this too! Ruth, I am glad you took it easy on my stuff when you were down for your visit! Seriously now, I am not a frail thing, and I crank my chuck on until it won't move anymore. I know that there are things I tighten with one arm that other people need two arms and a leg to get loose, and I have not had any problems with my Talon - yet. It is somewhere around three years old now.

What gets me is the hex heads rounding out. I had it happen again today! Then I broke a drill bit drilling it out, and had visions of impaling my other hand. I am going to have to call Oneway to get some replacement screws.

Bill

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#16

What? ME "Aggressive"???

Ruth

>Russ and Bill,

Wow! Wouldn't the guys on the ng love to hear you saying I'm "aggresssive"! : )

I love my Talon, have no complaints at all; and I don't tighten it with a lot of pressure. I don't HAVE a lot of pressure to use! Lately it sticks when it reaches about 2" diameter (approx.). It tightens just as smooth as when it was new up to this point then feels tight for a few turns then it loosens up again. That's why I thought it was just full of dust but cleaning the whole thing didn't help. I don't notice any oval effect.

Bill, I had to use an easy-out a few times with on those pesky stuck or rounded grooved screws, too. Since I have all the jaws, I have extra screws. Maybe you're cranking down those innocent little screws too aggressively...

Ruth : )

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#17

Re: What? ME "Aggressive"???

John Lucas

>Ruth

I have a 3 jaw chuck on my little metal lathe that just started doing what your talking about. It is sticky at one point. I haven't disassembled it yet but just assumed it was dirty. Maybe I'll have time to do that this weekend and i'll let you know if I find something.

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#18

Re: ONEWAY Stronghold Chuck

Peter Teubel

>Ah! So its not just me. I think that chuck is not really meant for production use like you and I do.

I wonder if the smaller Vicmarc is more robust. I still would like a smaller chuck in my tool inventory.

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#19

Re: I have to ask "The Question"

Peter Teubel

>I'm not making any claims of "poor quality". Just relaying my experience with the chuck in a production environment. How much force am I using? As much as my 17" biceps will produce using the supplied key ONLY (no cheater bar). Yes, its needed to keep the piece in the chuck. I've rarely had the piece pop out....tenons have broke, but the chuck always held the wood.

In my case, I guess I am simply overpowering the chuck, which is why I got another Stronghold to replace it. NEVER had any problems with that one.

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#20

Re: What? ME "Aggressive"???

Peter Teubel

>That's exactly what happened to my second Talon after about a month of use. One major sticking point (no pun intended).

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#21

Re: ONEWAY Stronghold Chuck

Jack (Turtle Workshop)

>Here is something that ain't in the Stronghold instruction book.

I was turning a poplar bowl and noted at certain speeds on my PM 2035a that I'd hear a faint sort of clicking. Well I'd slow it down and the clicking seemed to go away.

To cut to the chase, I just got tired of hearing a mystery sound so I started troubleshooting. I took the project off of the chuck. The noise was still there. I then took the chuck off of the lathe. Noise went south.

I then closely checked the chuck. Lo an behold the thread adapter anchor screws had come loose. Now you've got to understand that I'd preloaded them by torque wrench to 20#. I tightened 'em back up and the clicking is now his-tore-ree!

Jack

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#22

Re: What? ME "Aggressive"???

Bill Grumbine, Kutztown PA

>Ruth, me? Aggressive? I'm just a big teddy bear, a marshmallow. Why if I didn't have something to lean on I would fall over. I always like to make sure that nothing is going to come loose while spinning near my body, and for sure nothing ever does. Now, getting it loose when I want it, that is a different story.

I remember one time in our old house when the bathtub faucet had a slow drip. The seats were old and stiff, and it would not close all the way easily. One night I got very frustrated and with a nice loud "Yeeeaarrrgghhh!" I made it nice and tight and the water stopped. It was not too much later that the lovely SWMBO appeared to tell me she could not get the faucet to move and would I please come and fix it. I was then told not to make things so tight! (again)

Bill

Re: Oneway Talon Chuck

#23

Re: ONEWAY Stronghold Chuck

David Galloway

>Had the same strange sounds. Thanks for the tip.

David Galloway

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