Cherry coloring problem

Re: Cherry coloring problem

Tony Reynolds in Newark, Ohio

>Hi Dominic,

I don't like gel stains as it tends to mask the grain. I would seal coat it with a 1 or 2 lb clear coat of shellac. Then use a Transtint dye like reddish brown mixed into a 2lb cut shellac and build the layers of color to your liking, using it like a toner. More in some areas than others. Then clear coat over that. More work but worth the effort. Nice looking bowl BTW.

Tony

Don't do it

Mike Schwing from Maryland

>Dom, I wouldn't do a thing to that bowl color wise. In fact, I like it. Besides, before too long the rest of the bowl will darken dramatically and you won't notice it as much.

If you do decide you can't live with it, I'd choose one of two methods; 1. either an alcohol based dye and spray it on so that it dries just about as it touches the surface. Stains will muck up that wood and hide the grain. 2. Brushing a solution of Drano on the wood will age it immediately, giving it a 100 year old look in a few minutes. Beware though that the sapwood might not react the same as the heartwood. OR put it out in the sun for a few days, if it ever shines again.

I would never choose a stain to use over cherry. Its unpredicatable and it muddies up the grain. Sprayed alochol based dyes work well.

But my rec would be to either shellac or Waterlox the bowl - no coloration added.

I like the way it looks and I'm guessing since you didn't show us the inside that its only on the exterior surface anyway.

Re: Cherry coloring problem

Ron Sardo

>I won't do a thing.

Mark's idea of setting the bowl in the sun is the best idea.

No matter what you do with gel stains you will never match the color of the stain to the rest of the bowl. It would always be a compromise.

Also, I've found that alcohol based dyes fade over time, even quicker when exposed to sunlight.

Re: Cherry coloring problem

John Trant (aka Boxes-n-Bowls)

>That is *not* an attractive stain. I would try a judicious application of wood bleach (lye and peroxide mix) to reduce the color in just this area. Wood bleach can be found at HD and Lowes. Alternatively, just use the lye to "instantly age" the whole cherry bowl to a nice chestnut brown. You may need to dye this area or maybe the whole bowl to even out the color with either of these treatments. Then top coat it with several rub-on/rub-off coats of Waterlox. Do a test of each treatment if you have any of that stained log remaining.

John

Re: Cherry coloring problem

David Eaves

>Hi Dominic,

I hope you manage to find a good solution to this. It is an interest thread to read the suggestions. I don't have the experience to offer any of my own.

Let us know how you get on with it.

David

Re: Cherry coloring problem

Andi Wolfe

>Aniline dye should work to solve the problem for you. You'll need to dye the entire area, though. Jeff Jewitt has a book (Hand Applied Finishes) on the technique for furniture - should work for turnings as well.

Andi Wolfe

Re: Cherry coloring problem

Russ Fairfield

>Dominic,

Whatever you decide to do with the wood, always WAIT at least 2-weeks before making that decision when you are finishing Cherry. It helps if it is placed in bright sunlight during this time. Wait a month if the weather is cloudy and overcast.

Cherry is a wood that has a mind of its own about the natural color changes, but it gives us the choice of whether we want it to look good now or later.

Left to nature, the wood will look better the older it gets. The wood will darken, and the color differences between the stain, heart, and sap wood will start to disappear.

Or, you can use bleach, dyes, stains, and chemicals to make the color look good now. But, this nice appearance can be a fleeting thing because you cannot stop nature. There is a good chance that you will like it less as nature and time make their own changes. In the end the wood will change, and sometimes it will look dead and lifeless in a year or two.

Thanks everyone

Dominic Greco in Richboro PA

>I appreciate all the great suggestions and input you've given me. From the responses, both here at Wood Central and at other turning sites, I get the impression that the vast majority of woodworkers feel that the natural appearance is the best.

So unless I change my mind sometime before tonight, I plan on applying an oil based finish to this bowl. I'll probably use Watco's Danish Oil (Natural), or Woodcraft's Urethane Oil.

Thanks again for the tips.

Dominic