mahogany

Re: mahogany

TDaniel

>There are many different grades of mahogany but the grades most available today tend to splinter very easily. I would doubt that you would be able to drill it as thin as required without it cracking; worth a try though.

TD

Re: mahogany

Chuck Ludwigsen

>I agree with Terry. It is pretty open-grained. I've turned candlesticks and things successfully with it and I am about to turn a peppermill from a largish piece. I will go very easy on it with sharp tools.

If I were to think about turning very thin items like pens from it, I would be thinking of Paduak or something else instead.

Chuck

Re: mahogany

John Lucas

>I've worked with a lot of mahagony over the years. I think the only real problem is the open grain. For pens you would probably want to fill the pores. It carves well and sands easily but you need to watch for sanding scratches because it's pretty soft. It takes details pretty well but not as nice as cherry or maple. Since it's so soft really fine details will be fragile so save these for "art" pieces. For utilitarian pieces make the details thicker.

My favorite finish is to dye it red with analine dye and then rub Cordovan or brown shoe polish into the pores. This turns the wood a beautiful brown/burgundy and fills the pores. Let it dry for a few days and then put a layer of shellac over it to seal the shoe polish. Then apply your favorite finish.

Re: mahogany

RonZ

>I get a lot of requests for mahogony pens and they are no real problem turning. For wood that tends to splinter like mahogony, zebra wood or purple heart, I use a detail gouge with a celtic [sweeped back] grind for moost of the work. I use Mylands sanding sealer, friction polish, and carnauba wax for my finish. It's probably not sold as blanks because it's pretty common and doesnt show too much grain pattern. Here is a 9" dish using friction polish for a finish.

Re: mahogany

clint godin

>thank you,

that is why i came to this site.but i did finish

2 slim line pens.i also did notice the

splintering and open grain.what i did was faster

spd.and went easy on removing material.i also

sanded from 220to 320 400 600 1200.i finished

one with 3coats of mylands then hut finish.the other 2 coats of hut.i did not know what i was doing.they both came out good!beginners luck?

can you fill me in more.please do not misunder-

stand me.i believe what everybody has said.

still a rookie here.almost everything i turn is still new. anyway thanks looking for a reply.

Re: mahogany

TDaniel

>Clint, my guess is you got some of the good cuban mahogany or a close equivalent, I doubt you could have drilled the Honduras mahogany without it splitting although with a very slow feed speed and a sharp bit you may have. Never fear trying something new, that's where the fun is (as long as it is safe).

TD

Re: mahogany

Chuck Hargenrader

>if you give me your address I'll send you some mahogany for pens blanks. I came by some last year when I met a guy who dismantled a tanery near us. not sure what type it is but it works well.

chuck in maine

Re: mahogany

Greg W in NC

>I think the reason you don't see more mahogany blanks is, as Ron said, there's just not much grain in it. Pens are so small, and as such, present a small 'canvas', so most penturners want wood with lots of grain patterns. That's one reason why burls make very popular pen blanks.

If you really want to turn them, go for it. I've done a few, and if you'll just follow the proper protocol (sharp tools, ride the bevel, etc), you'll be fine. I recommend the skew for the cleanest cuts. If you want, you can use CA to fill in the pores fairly easily.

Re: mahogany

arvin brown

>I make pens with Mahogany all the time. No problems.

Re: mahogany

John Cahall

>I turn Mahogany all the time and it does quite well. I use a sharp skew. I also laminate it with Walnut and have made platters, pens, and boxes. It has about the same grain and softness as the Walnut. When I sand it with shellac and 600 grit the Walnut slurry seems to fill the pours of the Mahogany and the contrast is pretty nice.

Re: mahogany

John Cahall

>Here is a platter

Re: mahogany

John Cahall

>Ooops! Here is a platter

Re: mahogany

John Cahall

>And a bowl

Re: mahogany

chris rolke

>i have done plenty of mahogany

works well

http://rolke.dyndns.org/freedompens/freedompens.asp

Re: mahogany

Eduardo Sarmiento Hall-Lima Peru

>Nice pens but mahogany is very unatractive grain wise unless is croch or burl I have made many pieces of mahogany but allways looking for of cuts they are were you find the good things in turning ED