Molly's branding process

Re: Molly's branding process

Molly Winton

>Here's a close-up of the pen tip and brand I'm using. This is the brand that gives me the basket weave pattern. It's just a 20 guage nichrome wire that has been wound around a nail.

Re: Molly's branding process

Molly Winton

>I outline the space to be branded first with a commercial pen. I believe this is the DetailMaster A10 (or A6) I can't remember. This line guides me as to where to brand, but also acts as my border to help prevent burning bleed over to a space I don't want charred.

Re: Molly's branding process

Molly Winton

>Then I just start branding...touch, touch, rotate piece, touch, touch, rotate piece, etc. etc. This vase is made from osage orange which is extremely hard and dense wood. I had the heat quite high, and had to hold it on the wood for a longer time to make the imprint, as opposed to some other looser grained wood that needs a lower temp. and lighter touch. I always have a test piece of the wood I'm about to brand (seen in the upper left corner of the pic) to try it all out prior to touching the original piece.

Re: Molly's branding process

Molly Winton

>This photo shows how I always have a finger braced against the piece to steady my hand. It's kind of like an outrigger on a canoe, which provides balance and stability.

Final Piece

Molly Winton

>So here is what the final piece looks like. I've yet to put a finish on it, but it will probably be my usual walnut oil. I like this finish because it leaves the wood in a more natural appearance. The collar is ebony, and the cracks were filled with brass shavings. The vase stands approximately 4 1/2" tall, and 3 1/2" diameter.

Re: Final Piece

-e-

>Love your style -- the geometric patterns work. And I like how you broke them up with the brass.

Looking forward to your next piece! :>)

By the way, the razortip post-pen is a keeper. Very easy to work with.

Re: Final Piece

John Lucas

>Molly

Thanks a bunch. I imagine the rest of wood central readers will be excited about this process. I love the brocken up patterns on the piece. Now I just have to get my butt in gear and play with to burners more.

I also keep a scrap piece of the same wood handy to test on. I have a hard time finding the right burning temperature especially woods that have really noticeable differences in summer/winter wood hardness.

Thanks Molly !!!

Wayne Allen (Carson City, Nevada)

>Thanks for the great narative and photos of your process. That was exactly what I was looking for. Now I guess I will have to think about investing in MORE tools! Dont'cha just love it! Where do you get more info in the Detail Master and Razortip units? If you don't mind I am going to copy your post and keep it in my "great ideas for projects" file. Thanks again for sharing your beautiful work. -Wayne

Re: Thanks Molly !!! *LINK*

Molly Winton

>Thanks Wayne. The easiest place to check out the Razortip is in Craft Supplies USA catalog. I can't remember where I got my DetailMaster, but I found it through a search done on the web. Try 'DetailMaster' and/or 'pyrography'. I've also added a link below that takes you to the pyrography museum. They have an excellent section where they list a huge variety of pyrography units. It's a very interesting site.


http://www.geocities/Paris/Rue/4029/newtools.html

Re: Thanks Molly !!!

Richard Allen

>Hi Wayne

There is a base unit sold by Woodcarvers Supply that takes most of the different manufactures pens.

Razortip has a website http://www.razertip.com/ where they sell, among other things, a handle with screws to attach pieces of wire. They also sell short pieces of wire.

Handle with screws

Assorted wire

Good Luck

Re: Final Piece

Molly Winton

>I agree John. I think having a scrap piece of the same wood handy for testing is crucial. The temperature I used for the osage was very hot by necessity, but in contrast I had a piece of coyote wood nearby, which is very similar to mahogony. Just to see the difference I touched the coyote with the brand using the temp necessary for the osage, and POOF it instantly burst into flame at just a slight touch.

Link not working for some reason

Molly Winton

>For some reason this link is not working, so try cutting and pasting it instead.

Re: Thanks Molly !!! *LINK*

Art Liestman

>A good source for Detailmaster base units and pens is:


http://www.woodburningpens.com/

Re: Final Piece

John Lucas

>Molly

Poof is not a word you want to hear in a woodshop or anywhere near a propane stove.

Re: Link not working for some reason *LINK*

Frederick Nelson

>The link is missing the ".com" after the geocities URL. Add that and all should be well.

FNelson


http://www.geocities.com/paris/rue/4029/newtools.html