tool handle making - before I do..

Re: tool handle making - before I do..

John Lucas

>Mike

The nut doesn't give any holding power it only keeps the wood from splitting. I usually put about 3" of the tool into the handle. My usual procedure it so grind a very slight flat on both sides of the metal. Then make the hole very slightly too small and heat the very end of the tool almost red hot. Then I drive it in the handle. I've never had one come out.

If you don't want to do that I would still grind the flats. They keep the tool from twisting. Then just drill the hole in the handle to the proper size and use epoxy. That's worked well for me also.

For the Ferrule I use anything from Copper pipe to string soaked in CA glue. I prefer Brass pipe nipples, or Brass compression nuts.

Warning about tool handles from toxic woods

Russ Fairfield

>Remember that the toxicity of woods like Cocobolo is accumulative in your body until there is sufficient concentration for a reaction.

Using a tool handle made from a potentially toxic wood will hasten that accumulation, and shorten the time until you have a reaction to the wood.

Re: tool handle making - before I do..

Ryan McMullen

>Well, I have just finished my first tool handle so here is what was recommended to me.

First off, yes you can by a gouge without the handle, a google search will reveal the suppliers. I purchased my unhandled tool from Lee Valley, it was the P&N bowl gouge.

Glueing the tool in the handle may be done to give you added security, but if the hole in the handle is drilled properly, it shouldn't have to be done. And that way if you decide the handle is not quite right you have the option of makeing a new handle, removing the tool from the old one and put the tool in the new handle.

I'm not sure about all unhandled tools but mine had an area on the shank that was a different texture than the working end, I put that entire part in the handle (think it was close to 3.5")

As mentioned above, the ferrule does not hold the tool in the handle but does keep the wood from splitting. I used a piece of 1" copper pipe connector (I.D. was about 1 1/8"). I cut it in two pcs at the mid point so I will get 2 tools from 1 connector.

I first turned the area for the ferrule, added the ferrule, drilled my hole then turned the rest of the handle. This is how Chuck did his and it worked well. You could also turn the whole thing, add the ferrule then drill, but drilling with the piece still square made it easier to get a straight hole drilled.

My only problem was since I had nothing to really go by for an example, and the only tools I had prior to that was my HF cheapy set, I guessed on the overall size and form. I think I got the form right (at least I like it) but I could have made the diameter a little smaller - that will be fixed with the next tool handle I make.

Hope you found some of this usefull and good luck

Ryan

P.S. I'm sure when Chuck see's this thread he'll jump in with his advice too.

Re: tool handle making - before I do..

Bill Grumbine, Kutztown PA

>Hi Mike

Remember the makore! Cocobolo has sent a couple of my friends to the hospital, so be aware of its properties before you start with it, especially if you are going to be using it up under your arm like that!

Other than that, as the others say, the ferrule is there to keep the wood from splitting, although it you lean on the tool hard enough, it won't even do that. I have broken a few tools in my time...

I will be interested to see what you come up with. I have a gouge right now that is unhandled, and have been thinking of a long handle for it as well, so when you get it done, post some pics.

Bill

Re: tool handle making - before I do..

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Good points about toxicity gents! I've not had a problem with cocobolo at all so I didn't consider a cumulative effect. (Bill I could never forget the makore experience).

Hmmm...I saw some hard maple that would be good instead. Or...why couldn't I just start with an ash baseball bat and turn it down..hhmm again..most of the ones the pros use already have a metallic inside...

Thanks all. I'll come up with something.

can't use baseball bat...cork inside.

TDaniel

>

Re: Warning about tool handles from toxic woods

John Lucas

>Russ

what if it has a good finish on it?

Re: tool handle making - before I do..

John Lucas

>Ray brings up a good point. Getting the old tool out. I clamp the tool in my wooden jawed vice with about 2" of metal near the handle sticking out. I put my Jorgensen wooden clamp over the metal loosely and then use a Dead blow hammer to hit the clamp. This will knock the handle off even if it's been epoxied.

Re: tool handle making - before I do..

Darryl Hansen

>Mike you can get a 26" piece of oak from Lowes. They are about 21/2" square and are actually table leg replacements. Some have threaded inserts in one end that can be removed easily. Goos sturdy and cheap...

Re: Warning about tool handles from toxic woods

Ryan McMullen

>Ok, so what then are some good exotic or semi-exotic hardwoods, preferably darker wood, that would make a good handle? As far as a good finish - if it's used the finish will wear off. I'd hate to have to reapply a finish every so often just to have a "safe" handle.

So far I have only used ash, but would prefer to use something dark (guess I could always stain it, but I don't thing the stain would stick where CA was used to fill holes and gaps)

Thanks

Ryan

Re: tool handle making - before I do..

Ron Sardo in PA

>Why not hickory - It's not dark but is great for handles.

Re: Warning about tool handles from toxic woods *LINK*

Paul Porter

>Just wondering, why a dark handle? I use oak or ash. I used mesquite once, but it broke not long after I started using it. It had some hidden cracks.

Thanks,

Paul


http://paulporterwoodturning.home.mindspring.com

Re: tool handle making - before I do..

John Lucas

>Why not just glue up some Walnut. You could put light colored wood inbetween to make it look nice. I'll take a photo of my big gouge tonight and post it. That is assuming my new computer is working right. I've downloaded everything but sometimes I have to reload photoshop to make my printer accept it.

Re: Warning about tool handles from toxic woods

Ryan McMullen

>Basically in response to another thread of mine someone posted a pic of their tools that had cocobolo handles and I thought that looked really nice. It's also a way that you can tell your tools from someone else's

Ryan

Re: tool handle making - before I do..

adrien

>At Ellsworth's studio, he uses 28" long handles, really large--maybe 2" diameter with CORD wrapped around the tool end since it's pretty big for a ferrule. He has the back end turned oval for about 4" to make for a better grip and to help orient the tool. (Also a black line drawn over the cords to indicate orientation of the tool. They are massive.

Re: tool handle making - before I do..

Keith Tompkins

>Hi Mike, would you consider a Housaluk style handle? Mine is 1/2" on one end,5/8" on the other. All kind of tools can be held, even home'made ones. Great for unhandled gouges.

Like these adrien?

Dave Peebles Lyons, Ohio!

>Hello Adrien,

I have some of these tools that I made. In my opinion they are really a good way to begin hollow turning. And they are a cheap way to start.

Mine are about 29"in length. I still use them everyday.

Dave

Re: tool handle making - before I do..

Mike Schwing from Maryland

>sure I would, but the largest I could find online was not nearly long enough.

Pic-ax Handle

Jorge Casta�eda ~ East Penobscot Bay

>It is solid hickory and about 3' long, you may be able to do a couple...