Second Grinding Wheel?

Re: Second Grinding Wheel?

Bruce McElhaney Spring Lake, MI

>My 8" Delta slow-speed grinder came with a course grey wheel and a 120 grit white friable wheel. The 120 wheel does a nice job. I can't imagine using anything less that a 100 grit wheel on my turning tools.

Re: Second Grinding Wheel?

Jake D (So MN)

>Thanks, my grinder came with with a coarse grey wheel and a 60 grit friable wheel. I guess they have changed what wheels they come with. So you would recommend using a 120 grit wheel?

Jake

Re: Second Grinding Wheel?

David Hammond, in Powder Springs GA

>Just to throw a curve in here, and comment on a very subjective subject: there are professionals here that sharpen on a Tormek - a fine stone spinning slow in water, and they'll talk 'till they're blue in the face about how great there edge is. But I just watched the Mike Mahoney video, From Tree To Table, and he free hand grinds his finishing gouge on a dry, high speed grinder, equipped with a blue 56 grit wheel. Just something to think about - I think this is what I'll be trying here before long.

David

Re: Second Grinding Wheel?

Peter Teubel

>I use a blue 80 grit wheel for sharpening my gouges and a pink 56 grit wheel for my scrapers. I tried a 120 grit wheel, but it was no better (IMO) that the 80 grint.

Re: Second Grinding Wheel?

John Lucas

>I use a 100 grit wheel but I would like to try an 80 or 60. When I need to reshape a tip it takes too long. I don't know if sharpness would be a problem but John Jordan uses a 60 and sure gets good cuts. I have a few high Carbon tools that I like and you have to be really careful not to overheat them on the 100 grit stone.

Interesting responses...

TDaniel

>I have 3 sharpening systems that I use for demos; the Tormek, a 6" grinder with a Sorby jig and whatever wheel came on the little Delta variable speed grinder, and an 8" Delta 1800 rpm with the original white wheel and the Wolverine system on that one. Which one gets the tool sharpest? That all depends on the surface I am trying to cut. On some woods the coarser stone will give the tool more "bite" than a fine edge. I know when I sharpen on the Tormek that my gouge is sharper but that does not always translate into faster cutting, (I hear the arguments coming on this). For final finishing cuts I like to sharpen on the Tormek. As always, your cutting style will have a lot to do with which stone will work best. If you cut with the tip of the tool I would say the finer the edge the better; however, if you cut with the side of the tool then I would say some "bite" helps. All this is my opinion and I would be interested in what others have found works for them.

TD

Re: Second Grinding Wheel?

Jim Pugh in Ohio

>Jake, the 60 grit wheel is just fine so learn to use it and spend your money on other things. I have gone from 60/120 wheel combination to 60/80 grit to now having 60 grit wheels on both side of the grinder.

This is a subject that yields many opinions and this one is mine. After you have more experience sharpening/using your tools you might choose to move up to an 80 grit wheel but I doubt it.

Re: Interesting responses...

Russ Fairfield

>TD,

Your message is the one that I have been saying for years. It is also the message that nobody wants to hear.

And that is --

The tool should be sharpened with the cutting edge that looks good to the wood, NOT to what looks good to the woodturner. The two are not always the same.

Re: Second Grinding Wheel? *LINK*

Russ Fairfield

>A 46-grit is a coarse wheel, and a 120-grit is a fine wheel. Take your pick for those in between. There isn't enough difference between 60, 80, and 100-grit to worry about it.

Item 13 from:


The Universal Truths of Woodturning

Re: Second Grinding Wheel?

Guy

>I'm lazy. My Woodcraft grinder came with an 80 and a 120 grit. I use a Wolverine jig with it and I just leave the V arm on the 120 side for gouges and the flat rest on the 80 grit for scrapers and any freehand sharpening. Saves me time and works for me. I think technique and perfecting how you like to sharpen make much more difference than a particular stone or jig. Just my opinion. Have fun and be safe, Guy

Re: Second Grinding Wheel?

Jake D (So MN)

>Thank you all for your insight; this gives me something to think about.

The reason I am thinking of this is I have been turning green maple up to this point with great results so far (I am using a hamlet 2060 1/2" bowl gouge (Celtic grind) and a large bowl scraper)

I recently chucked up a small piece of dry wood I picked up at the Rockler closeout bin (really cheap) and I am having all kinds of tear out problems. I assumed it was because of a dull tool due to my lack of sharpening experience. I don't know what kind of wood it is but it is dark and a little soft.

It sounds like it might be a combination of a slightly dull tool and possibly the grain of the wood. I do like to use the tip of the gouge, but will use the side occasionally. I get better results taking ultra light cuts with the side of the gouge, but had problems with it catching and really bunging up the piece.

Thanks for all your understanding and help. It is great to be able to have a resource like you people to use.

I must say I started out as a flat board worker, but am quickly falling in love with turning. There is just something about watching a long curl of wood float off the gouge to the floor......

Jake

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Re: Second Grinding Wheel?

Russell Seaton

>I use the 60 grit for almost everything. I have a 120 grit wheel because the grinder came with it. I use the 120 for parting tools and skew chisels only. And I am probably going to use the Veritas sandpaper sharpener for these in the future to get a real sharp honed edge. The 120 is too fine and heats up the tool too quickly. Yes I have HSS but still prefer keeping it cool. So I would say use the 60 and don't get anything finer than 60. I've thought about getting a 46 grit to go with my 60.