Hollow turning Green

Re: Hollow turning Green

steve antonucci

>Here's been my experience:

1.) Hollow turn green to finish. Piece will warp to whatever it feels the appropriate final form is. Hand sand.

2.) Hollow "a rough out", which can be <10%, but should be enough to remove any warpage for final turning. Finishing can be done on the lathe. anchor seal the outside, and stack the blank hole-side down in freshly cut shavings.

I've only recently started method number two, to see if it greatly reduces the elongation along the grain, but I haven't enough finished work to know how long, and how much...

steve

Re: Hollow turning Green

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Chuck, recommended wall thickness for rough turned, wet hollow forms depends on several things. The larger the vessel the thicker the walls, because you assume that there'll be more warping. End grain won't distort as much because warping is about the same all the way around. Some kinds of wood will warp more than others. One inch thick walls on a 10 inch, end grain hollow form works okay, but it'll take longer to dry than 5/8 inch.

Use wax or Anchorseal on the outside, date it, and store it for a few months.

Wally

Re: Hollow turning Green

Chuck Ludwigsen

>Thanks Wally and Steve,

This piece is 4-1/4" tall by 4-1/2" wide. Walls are between 3/8 and 1/2" (closer to 1/2"). It is Magnolia. This one will probably move a good bit but I guess thats okay for a first piece.

I do love how clean the shavings come off this magnolia (with a sharp bowl gouge) ;-)

Thanks again, Wally, for the excellent tutorial on hollowforms.

Chuck in Memphis, TN.

Re: Hollow turning Green

Dick Hines

>Wally, do you leave a tennon on the bottom just like a bowl? I did that onec and in a couple of weeks the piece looked like it had been hit with an ax.

Re: Hollow turning Green

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Dick, I have two scroll chucks but I seldom use them in bowl or vessel turning. I usually use a waste block and screwchuck or faceplate. For end grain hollowforms I use a small tenon, an inch or a little less in dia. on the piece with a corresponding opening in the waste block. Makes a stronger, safer joint.

Wally

Re: Hollow turning Green

Dick Hines

>If I understand you right you use a glue block and face plate and just leave the glue block on the piece until it becomes dry?

Re: Hollow turning Green

Chuck Ludwigsen

>Yes, I was curious about the glue block while drying as well.

I turned the Magnolia vase entirely with a faceplate and glue block. I only have a 6" faceplate (came with the Jet) so I screwed a waste block to it and balanced it, then glued the Magnolia to it with CA. I did previously true the Magnolia between centers and cleaned up one face.

I turned it with the foot end glued to the waste block, leaving it kinda thick there until I was done with the inside.

Could I have left the wasteblock attached while drying or would I have had to turn part of the foot into a tenon for re-chucking?

Thanks Wally. By the time you get done answering all of our hollowing questions, you just might have enough text in print to compile that book.

Chuck in Memphis, TN.

cookie post

Chuck Ludwigsen

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Re: Hollow turning Green

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Yep, here's a pic of about 70 pieces in various stages of drying, almost all with wasteblocks.

Wally

Re: Hollow turning Green

Dick Hines

>"Now I see", said the blind man.

Thanks Wally.

Re: Hollow turning Green

Chuck Ludwigsen

>Man, I'm sitting here drooling looking at that shelf!

Thanks, Wally.

Chuck in Memphis, TN.