Hey, Lyn Mangiameli...

Re: Hey, Lyn Mangiameli...

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>I can do that, though I don't think they are a sufficient departure from the Glaser grind to be notable.

I actually have taken some photos of the Jordan grind and have been meaning to post those, as I think his flat wings do represent a grind different from the Glaser/Ellsworth, though it otherwise shares a lot of the geometry.

Re: Hey, Lyn Mangiameli...

W.C. Turner

>I've got the Oneway double ended gouge with the Hosaluk handle. I ground it like John Jordan shows on the AAW Sharpening video. It is kinda pointy, and I'm not too good at using it yet. I'm debating making it less pointy. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

W.C.

Re: Hey, Lyn Mangiameli...

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>I haven't seen that video (though I've heard it is very good), but it seems to me that I remember that some of John's grinds were at lower foward bevel angles, say something closer to 45 degrees. On the gouges he is currently supplying, he uses a forward bevel of 60 degrees, which is what Glaser and Ellsworth use. So you might want to check your bevel angle and increase it to the 60 degree range if it isn't there already. Shortening your wings and making them more convex will also make for a less "pointy" tip.

Russ really knows and likes the Oneway gouges and may be able to offer you more pertinent advice.

Finally, if you haven't seen it yet, you might want to take a look at Ellsworth's Signature Gouge video. The techniques there are very helpful in using any swept back gouge, and may just give you some ideas that will make you even more comfortable with the swept back grind.

Hope this helps in some way

Re: Hey, Lyn & Russ..

W.C. Turner

>I've got the nose angle set at 60� already. I haven't figured out how to make the wings convex sharpening on a grinder? They always come out concave.

Thanks,

W.C.

Re: Hey, Lyn & Russ..

Russ Fairfield

>Look at the photo of the convex profile in the Grinds Library. I make this profile with a series of bevels that are made free-hand on the grinder. They can also be done with a jig by extending the gouge farther out through the jig, or sliding the pivot point closer to the wheel, for each pass across the wheel.

Don't worry about the multiple facets. The wood only sees the one just below the cutting edge.

I also show the profile that I use for a 5/8" Oneway bowl gouge.

Setting the profile

Bob Hackett

>I`ve found that when I get a new gouge and have to grind the top edge of the profile(making the wings convex)the easiest way for me to do this is to turn the gouge with the flute facing the wheel and gring the top profile onto it that way.You now have the angle along the length,curve and depth of the wings established but flat.The second step is to put the gouge into the jig and grind the bevel till the flats just disappear,you`ll know you`re there when sparks run over the edge and into the flute.I grind the nose close to finished(the leg angle of the vari-grind sets the nose angle when combined with the length of gouge exposed from the jig)then concentrate on the wings(the length of the sliding rest sets the wing angle).One or two light passes blends the nose with the wings and finishes the grind.

This approach has worked well with Mastercut(Oneway),Henry Taylor,Sorby and some strange(but excellent)particle steel gouge tips from Australia so you should be able to make it work.The only grind I`ve found impossible to reproduce with the Varigrind is the one Jacques Vesery uses for hollowing,but that`s a radical grind if there ever was one!Hope this helps.

Mainely,Bob

Re: Setting the profile

Lyn J. Mangiameli

>This is some great advice. You will also find it discussed in an article that Jerry Glaser did for Woodworker West which I believe is "re-printed" in the articles section here on WC.

You may find that it would be helpful at this point to either borrow or purchase a properly sharpened gouge to have an accurate model so that you can then procede with the magic marker technique to properly set you jig. You can also get a model tip from Packard that is meant solely for the purpose of providing a reference model. I haven't used it, but you can find it in their catalog right next to their version of the Ellsworth jig.

The concave sides developed from overgrinding the early part of the sides. It will use up some steel to correct this, but once done, you should find it fairly easy to maintain. Keep in mind that any jig controls the angles that are made between the grinding wheel and tip, but won't control how much time you spend at any one point along the path (and thus how much steel you remove at that point). You still must use a careful eye to make sure you are removing steel in consistent amounts across the entire tip. A good way to do this, and one I regularly use, is to magic marker the tip everytime you grind. This only takes a second, but it provides a visual indicator that you have evenly removed material, and also that you haven't missed any part of the edge.