Homemade Sharpening System - Pics and Link
Chuck Ludwigsen
>Hi folks,
I told a couple folks I would post some information about my sharpening system. Here are a few select images along with a link to more pictures and text at my website. Thanks for the interest. Credits go specifically to David Elsworth, Darrell Feltmate, Woodsmith magazine, and all of you that encourage me so much.
Let me first say that I now see why so many of the more advanced turners emphasize proper tool sharpening and devices such as these to aid in that. If you have the money, it is a GREAT investment. If you don't, then SERIOUSLY consider building your own until you do have the money.
Many beginners - like me for the longest time - free-hand it on the grinder instead of using a jig like the more advanced turners. The irony is that the more advanced folks are the ones who can probably free-hand it good enough. The moral, get some help, use a jig.
Here is an overall image of the sharpening station.
I made the arm assembly loosely based on a design I saw in an old Woodsmith magazine. I have since seen a dozen or so variants online. Heck, Woodcraft even has a PDF from David Elsworth about how to use HIS fingernail jig and he shows how to build a simple arm assembly.
Mine is probably over-engineered like everything I do, but it works and will probably out-live me ;-). It is made of Oak and the parts are both glued and screwed together. The arm slides in a rabbit and has a slot with 2 bolts through it to tighten it in place.
The fingernail jigs are made from blocks of Poplar. Maple would probably be better, but it is your preference. I bored a hole through the block dead-center for the tool to fit through. I then drilled a hole at about a 55 degree angle on the back, lower side to hold the dowel. The dowel is 3/8" x 15".
I came to the 15" based on how my arm assembly was set up and by trial and error. I painstakingly measured the angle of the tool in relation to the grinder and the distance the jig head needed to be from the arm assembly and how far out I wanted the arm to extend......
Then said "heck with all this, make it 15 inches". How is that for scientific?
I finished it off by drilling and tapping for a thumb screw and glueing the dowel in place. The thumbscrew does just fine and doesn't loosen or tearout. Of course, I don't have tree-trunk fore-arms like some do ;-).
According to David Elsworth, the tip should protrude 2" from the jig. I believe this is mainly to produce a consistant face and to create the necessary side grinds. If you changed the amount of tool extending each time, you would also have to adjust the V arm length and the other variables to get the same grind.
Do it the same every time and eliminate the worries.
Oh, and please forgive the shameless plug for Jet.
Thanks again for the interest. I hope this was helpful to you.
Take care,
Chuck in Memphis, TN.