>Craft Supplies USA (good people) has a beading tool listed in there new products section called the Sorby Easy Beader. This basically just looks like a V shaped scraper ground concave on both sides.
I have a couple V shaped scrapers I hardly use. Am I thinking right and does it look like this should be doable?
I think it's very do-able. you could reshape your grinding wheel with a diamond hone or just grind very carefully. You could probably grind it close with your grinder and then do the final shaping with a Dremel and abrasive wheels. John
>Hmmmm. Sounds like a plan is brewing. Thinking I'll be making another tool.
Okay, so I have a spare coarse wheel that I can use for the main shaping. Switch to a finer grit wheel to clean up the bevel and concave shape. Then clean it up with a round diamond stone. It already has a handle, but since it will be homemade, I will probably knock that off and turn another one.
One beading tool coming up. I'm thinking I need to add a photo album to my website that is nothing but tools and jigs.
I still have to heat-treat the 1-1/2" wide X 1/2" thick heavy scraper I made.
;-) I'm enjoying this waaaaaay too much.... NAAAW.
If it works similar to the other beading tool you approach the work from below center and raise the tool through the cut. It cuts cleaner that simply pushing the tool into the work. I agree with Ron, polish the bevel of the tool and then only sharpen by using a fine stone or diamond hone on the top.
Have fun. If I wasn't demonstrating in Hickory NC this weekend I would make one just to see how it works. I have some planer blades left. I would cut off a chunk and mount it in a cold roll bar. The HSS should hold an edge better.
>These tools and their full-bead counterpart look to be a good way to make a bead. However, there are a few problems with using these and other shaped forming tools.
A different tool is required for each size and radius of bead.
The wood is being cut along the entire length of the formed curve. This tool is a crude scraper amd high cutting forces and tear-out can be a problem. Chatter is always a problem on long spindles.
Most wood is easilly burned from the friction at the tip of the tool. Unless you like the burned accent, you will have to turn the wood very slowly to prevent burning; and the slower speed will usually mean more tear-out on the surface of the bead.
Since you already have a pointed scraper, it can be used as it is to form very acceptable beads; or you can use a parting tool laid on its side to do the same thing. Plunge the tool straight in to make the bottom of the groove. Then back the tool out of the groove while swinging it around to the side to follow the shape of the bead. Then do the same thing on the other side.
There is no restriction on the size of the bead, there will be no burning if you are careful, and the narrower shaving being removed will leave a better finish.
I've got to agree with your approach. The only time I see a special tool like this being worth the cost or effort to make is if your doing those vases with beads from top to bottom. Then consistency in size and the number being made would make this tool very comforting.
I bought one of these little V-shaped beading tools the other day, and I like it a lot...it's easy to use and makes a very consistant cut. Note the "beads" cut into these two recently made pen display Lazy Susans. You could probably grind a 1/4" to 1/2" roundnose scraper into a similar V shape, and accomplish the same end.
>Wow! Thanks everybody. I love these collaborative design discussions and the usage instructions saved me posting a second thread (thanks John & Russ).
Ed, those pens are something. SWMBO tells me I can budget for a pen mandrel in April so I can't wait ;-).
I'll keep y'all updated and post the tool and turning when completed. What got me interested in this was Wally's vase and then seeing this tool at the Craft Supplies USA web site.
>Clem! You are in Jonesboro. I'm in Memphis. Shoot me an email with your phone number and we'll arrange a day for you to come over and I'll SHOW you how I made them. Pick up a 5/8" or 3/4" steel rod and an Ash turning square from "That Wood Joint" and you just may leave with a tool.
Seriously, it was fun. Ryan and I are cutting up a bunch of Boxelder tomorrow night, but we can possibly do something Saturday or next week.
>Here's one made from a 1/4" square x 2 1/2" long cutter bit. The bit was shaped using the edge of an 8" wheel. It's 6 1/4" long. The ferrell is a brass pipe cap that had the flats cut back with a scraper.