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bowl gouge *LINK*

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bowl gouge *LINK*

#1

bowl gouge *LINK*

Ryan McMullen

>I've searched the archives, read many of the responses to "which" bowl gouge to use but I have a question.

On Lee Valleys site they have some P&N tools that are unhandled. Has anyone tried these and are they any good? (guess that's two questions). I already have a set of HF tools but no bowl gouge and I don't have a lot extra cash to invest in one. Though I am new to turning, I'm sure my friend Chuck will be willing to help me turn a handle for one of these bowl gouges.

Thanks for any input on the usefullness of these tools.

Ryan


Lee Valley P&H

Re: bowl gouge *LINK*

#2

Richard Allen

Re: bowl gouge

Richard Allen

>I prefer a gouge with a polished flute. You can use a slip stone to "polish" the cutting edge in the flute.

Serious Lathe has inexpensive un-handled tools

Good Luck

Re: bowl gouge *LINK*

#3

Re: bowl gouge *LINK*

tombuchner

>Ryan,

I have a few of these and really love their detail gouges. They have more mass to them than the many other brands out ther.

I also have their 1/4" bowl gouge and I know the ad says that they are M2 HSS but they seem to hold an edge a lot longer than the Henry Taylor and Crown HSS gouges I own.

Good Luck

Tom Buchner


http://tombuchner.com

Re: bowl gouge *LINK*

#4

Re: bowl gouge

Chuck Ludwigsen

>Tom,

I will take that statement about holding the edge longer along with those beautiful pieces I saw at your site as a good endorsement.

I think Ryan and I both might be saving some pennies ;-)

Chuck in Memphis, TN.

Re: bowl gouge *LINK*

#5

Re: bowl gouge

Ryan McMullen

>Thanks for the replies.

Looks like I'll be practicing some turning to make the handles.

Ryan

Re: bowl gouge *LINK*

#6

Re: bowl gouge

Peter Teubel

>Making your own handles allows you to customize them for YOUR turning style. I rehandle ALL my tools because I find the stock handles are too short and too light. I've tried the Oneway and Glazer handles, but I an partial to wood handles. All my bowl work tools are 20" long and turned from cocobolo. They provide a good bit of weight and leverage (not to mention they NEVER get confused with someone else's tools).


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Re: bowl gouge *LINK*

#7

Question about your handles

Dustkmaker Mike

>in your picture it looks like you have either brass or steel rings on the end of your handles. D you make these yourself or get them from some were? Also do you add extra weight in the handle to absorb the vibrations? Thanks

Re: bowl gouge *LINK*

#8

Re: Question about your handles

Chuck Ludwigsen

>I don't know how Peter does his, but I use large brass nuts.

Before drilling the hole for the shank, I turn a 1" tenon slightly longer than the nut (1-1/4"). I thread on the nut, drill the shank hole, remount on the lathe and turn the handle. I used a heavy pointed scraper to turn the brass nut down to a cylinder. You never have to worry about the ferule coming off.

Chuck in Memphis, TN.

Re: bowl gouge *LINK*

#9

Re: Question about your handles

Ric Erkes

>I couldn't find brass couplings, so I started using PVC pipe connectors. Cut them in half, so now you have two, turn the diameter you need on the handle and CA glue them in place.

I've never had one break or come off. Still haven't found any brass couplings, so can't price compare, but I don't see how it could be much cheaper or easier than the PVC fittings.

Ric

Re: bowl gouge *LINK*

#10

Re: Question about your handles

Peter Teubel

>I simply use copper pipe for the ferrule. Sized to fit tight and epoxied on. If they loosen over time, I use a nail-set to "crimp" them on again. On one of them I used an axle nut just for something different. The wood alone has enough weight for my liking without having to add more.

Re: bowl gouge *LINK*

#11

Thanks All

Dustkmaker Mike

>now I have a few more ideas and not enough time.

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.