Time to take the plunge

Re: Time to take the plunge

Chuck Ludwigsen

>I haven't tried using a parting tool to core out a solid piece. How well did it work and would you try it again? Seams like you would have to go REAL slow and overhang the tool rest un-supported quite a bit.

Chuck in Memphis, TN.

Re: Time to take the plunge

JHD in NC

>I saw how to do this with waiting for an order to be filled at Packard wood works. I live in the same town so no need to order online, and they are great to deal with and let me look at the books. I did it while between centers and from head side. Had to make several passes to make room for the tool or it could have been bigger. When it felt un-safe I removed the piece and used wedges to break it loose from the large one. I got it down to about 1.25� before removal. It really wasn�t that hard and I got to save that great piece of burl hate a floor full of chips that could have been a bowl. One day I will be and to get a coring system. But need to finish house and shop first. I have done this on others large blanks without any problems just keep it sharp. Thanks for looking John

Re: Time to take the plunge

Ron Sardo in PA

>I parted a core with a diamond parting tool. The maple blank was 6x6 leaving about 1-1/2" walls and the usable core finished up about 2-1/2x4. The parting tool is 3/16th wide and the cut I was making was about 3/8" wide, maybe more.

I don't know if I'd do it this way again unless it was a REALLY special piece of wood.

Would a coring system fit on a Jet 1236?

You Plunged Good

Glenn Hodges

>Hey John, nice looking. What kind of finish did you use to get them that shiny?

Nashville, Georgia

Re: You Plunged Good

JHD in NC

>It is not the final finish. I sprayed on some bulls eye to seal and it also act's a binder on the cherry burls. Spray heavy soaks in and hold together what would normaly dry srink and fall out of the burl. Learnd this from and 92 y/o wood worker. To finish I will sand off and wax, oil turns the cherry to dark. John