More questions about inlace

Re: More questions about inlace

Barbara Gill, Remlik Virginia

>I used to use CA glue with the inlace but now that there is a question about how it holds up over years I have started using West System epoxy. The inlace is sold with an epoxy but I never had good results using it.

Once the epoxy or glue is fully cured I wouldn't think there would be a food-safety issue.

I put the inlace in before the final pass with the gouge or scraper and before any sanding.

Re: More questions about inlace

John Lucas

>Tom

In my hand mirrors I make a slight dovetail when I cut a groove. This makes a mechanical joint. I also leave the bottom of the groove rough from the parting tool. The only time I've ever had one come loose was on Paduak. I tried CA glue to replace the ring in the Padauk and it still came out.

I have only used Inlace to fill really jagged holes and they had a pretty good mechanical bond. I would think Epoxy would work really well to bond the Inlace if necessary. I've never needed it.

Inlace is the same stuff as Corian Counter top material so I would think it is food safe.

Re: More questions about inlace

Wolf Kiessling

>I used this stuff all the time and I mix it with two part epoxy, the kind that comes in the squeeze tubes from Wally World. If it doesn't have to penetrate far, I use the 5 minute stuff, if it needs to fill in deep or lots of little places within a void, I use the two ton stuff which takes about 20 minutes to set up. I just squeeze the epoxy into a mixing container, stir it up for a miniute or so and then put in the amount of inlace that I think will look good. I am very generous in the application, I overfill the void, goove or whatever. I do it before I start the finishing process. When it is cured, I sand it flush with the surface and then continue the normal finishing process on the bowl.

Re: More questions about inlace

Tom Blahnik

>Thanks for your help. I've got a number of dry bowls with imperfections to try this on. Tom