Boring #2 taper

Re: Boring #2 taper

Bob Hackett

>Unless you have a compound crosslide like a machine lathe,you`ll have to drill a hole and then ream the taper.

MB

Re: Boring #2 taper *LINK*

Fred L. - North Carolina

>Dinyar:

Best way would be with a metal lathe. A rough hole is cut first. The compound is set to the proper angle, and a boring bar is used to cut the taper.

With a wood lathe, the best way is to get a Morse taper finishing reamer. It has the proper angle built into it. Of course, you still need a rough hole to start with. Downside, these reamers are expensive.

I am not sure why you need this. Morse taper extensions and adapters of all kinds are available. They are much cheaper than the reamers, readily available, and made from metal which is sturdier.

Best regards,

FredL


Morse Reamer

Re: Boring #2 taper

Jim Pugh in Ohio

>Dinyar, I suggest you measure how deep you need to be, and what the diameter of the small end of the taper must be. Drill a hole that diameter to the depth required. Measure the large end of the taper and turn/drill that at the opening of the hole. Use a scraper to blend the two together. You should probably drill a thru-hole the size of your knockout bar so you can remove whatever you are going to insert.

How about telling us why you need to do this exercise?

Re: Boring #2 taper

Chuck Ludwigsen

>Why not clamp it to the drill press table, bor a hole the narrowist diameter to the depth needed, and ream it with a #2 MT reamer from Enco (I think about $22)

Chuck in Memphis, TN.

Re: Boring #2 taper

Chuck Ludwigsen

>Make that under $16. Here is the link.

Enco #2 Morse Taper Hand Reamer

Chuck in Memphis, TN.

Bob - I have a compound crosslide on my ...

Clem Wixted Jonesboro, AR

>... old Walker Turner combination wood/metal lathe. How do I turn a Morse Taper?

Clem

Re: Boring #2 taper

John Lucas

>Dinyar

I think the #2 morse taper reamer is the best bet but you can build a reamer out of a keyhole saw and wood. John Alexander wrote an article in one of the magazines. I built one that has a taper a little over that of a #2 but it would be just as easy to make it a #2. I use it for Windsor chairs and Windsor stools. I think he describes it in his new book. If you want instructions on how to build one I'll try to write it up. It is basically a scraper so it won't have a good finish inside but it locks a leg in the stool really well.

Re: Boring #2 taper

Dinyar Chavda

>Jim and others:

Thanks for the suggestions.

The reason for thinking about doing this is that I want to make a tailstock that is much smaller than the one on my Woodfast. I can anticipate the next question---Why do you need a smaller tailstock?

I have a McNaughton corer and I have a piece of wood I wantto core. The piece has a very uneven face, and I am concerned that without any additional support, the corer will get a catch, and rip the wood out of the chuck. What I would like to do is to put the tailstock against the face of the wood so as to hold it in---I sometimes do this when hollowing. However, the tailstock on my lathe is this fairly standard long piece that would get in the way of the corer. SO, I thought that if I made a narrow tailstock out of some hard wood, attach it to the ways, bore a #2 MT taper in it at the level of the current tailstock, I could then put muy live center in it, put it against the wood, and have extra support without it being in the way.

Hope that's clear---I have a hard time describing visual things with words. IF there is an alternative method anyone knows of, I'd love to know. I want to core out this piece of wood, but I don't want to lose the main turning in the process.

Dinyar

Re: Bob - I have a compound crosslide on my ...

Bob Hackett

>You would just turn the compound to the angle needed,fit up a boring bar and turn the internal morse taper just as you would if it was metal.

I don`t know what the angle for a #2 morse is offhand but if you can`t find it I`ll dig out my old copy of the machinery handbook if you want.BTW-if the wood you plan to use does not scrape well,Id still follow it up with a tapered reamer.If this is a one shot deal a machine shop may let you borrow one if you leave a deposit.

If it`s something you plan to do from time to time as you need tooling you might think about making a scraping type reamer like the chairmakers use to fit spindles into seats for Windsor chairs.These involve fitting a scraper(like a piece of old hacksaw blade)into a wood body and aren`t all that hard to make up.Buying a reamer thru E-bay might be another option,just remember Enco sells then new for less than $25 as per the post below.

Mainely,Bob

Alternate approach

Bob Hackett

>I`d look for a #2 to #2 extention to put in the tailstock.That`s what Dave Lancaster uses to get more clearance when he cores.MSC or Enco should have them at a reasonable price.

MB

Re: Alternate approach

Dinyar Chavda

>Bob:

Does that mean that the tailstock is quite a bit behind the toolrest, so as to allow the coring handle to swing freely? How long do these extensions come?

Dinyar

Re: Alternate approach

Fred L. - North Carolina

>An extension for the same size taper, say #2 to #2, is isually about twice as long as a simgle taper.

Re: Alternate approach

Dinyar Chavda

>Just to make sure that I understand what you guys are referring to, is it an item like this one that I found at Enco?

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=2613662&PMAKA=214-8622

Do you know if they come any longer?

Thanks

Dinyar

Re: Boring #2 taper *LINK*

Peter Teubel

>Prices start at $28.06 for Morse taper #2 finish reamers from MSC. See link...


Morse #2 Reamer

Alternative to Boring #2 taper

Fred L. - North Carolina

>One more thought: Morse tapers are precision holes, and it is difficult to get them to have the proper fit. If the fit is not perfect the center will fall easily. Commercial parts have the right fit already, and are metal which is

preferable.

You can incorporate a #2 Morse extension into the tailstock you want to build. Just rough cut a hole of the approximate shape and size, and epoxy your extension in it. While the epoxy is still wet, put a live center in it, and make sure it is correctly lined up. You can put a small piece of wood in the chuck, drill a very small hole, and use that to line up the extension while it dries.

This might be the best of two worlds for you.

Re: Boring #2 taper

Ace Foster in Ben Lomond 95005

>If I understand this correctly, you're going to make a substitute tailstock to support this piece you're coring out. Why insist on a live center and a Morse taper at all? Gin up the tail stock in whatever shape seems good and use a pointed bolt as a dead center. All you need is some support; the loss of power is trivial.

Ace

Re: Boring #2 taper

Dinyar Chavda

>Thaks for all the great suggestions. I think the simplest one is Ace Foster's, and I think I will try it tomorrow.