For Mark Kauder

Re: For Mark Kauder

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>Hi Sean,

Here is the finishing process:

1) Sand to at least 320, but I prefer 400-600 grit. Blow off all the dust, and inspect carefully for any surface defects that require your attention (sanding marks, etc).

2) Next, I follow a procedure that Russ recommends. Put on a thin layer of lacquer (brush or cloth or spray), let it set a minute, and then wipe it off so that none is shown on the surface - use a rag dampened with lacquer thinner if it is sticky. This process eliminates most surface oils that would interfere with finishing. It also works as a primer for the next layers to grab onto.

3) Next, Apply three medium to heavy coats of clear lacquer finish - seperating each coat by 10-30 minutes. Allow to dry at least 24 hours.

4) Wet sand (Water) with 320 or 400 grit. At this point you are trying to level out the surface. Some places you will sand through the lacquer to the wood, that is OK, but once you hit wood, stop sanding in that place.

5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 over and over again until your surface is absolutely smooth. After the first sanding, you can probalby move to 800 Grit sandpaper.

6) Once the surface is smooth with 800 grit, apply 1-2 light coats of lacquer, and sand once with 1500 grit.

7) Apply 1-2 light coats of lacquer, and sand with 2000 grit (and if you want, higher grits of Micromesh)

8) When you are done sanding, apply Finess-it to a soft rag, and rub out the lacquer is small circular motions all over the surface.

9) Buff with a clean cloth, and then apply wax and buff.

Note when sanding - Where possible, sand with the sandpaper in the palm of you hand, making large circular motions. DO NOT sand with the sandpaper on one finger rubbing is small circles - you will create a divot that will be easily seen - and hard to repair.

Tight grained woods will require fewer layers of Lacquer to become smooth. Open Grained wood like Walnut and Oak, will take many, many coats.

Remember, since you are sanding it all smooth, it is possible to spot spray troubled areas, w/o spraying the whole piece. It is also possible to, for instance, spray the top half, and then later spray the bottom. The sanding will blend them in together.

As Russ says, Lacquer is the easiest finish to use, but is the least forgiving in surface preparation - it shows every defect.

Hope this helps.

Mark

Re: For Mark Kauder

Sean Troy

>Thank you very much. After the process you went through. Do you then apply the Finess-It/ After that , what type of wax do you use . Can you power buff it? Thank you, Sean

Re: For Mark Kauder

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>Let me make one thing clear - you say "Apply Finess-it". I would say "Use Finess-it". Finess-it is a buffing/Rubbing compound - it is a micro-fine abrasive.

Finess-it is made for machine or hand buffing. My experience with car painting would indicate the the buffing is done at a much slower speed than most woodturners buff on the lathe (Beal, etc). For me it is easier to just had buff setting in front of the TV. It really only takes 5-10 minutes to hand buff a bowl like the black one I posted.

I have just started using a liquid Carnuba Car Wax, but you could use Minwax Furniture wax or any of the others.

Mark

Re: For Mark Kauder

Sean Troy

>Thank you, Sean