Green Wood End Sealer

Re: Green Wood End Sealer

Steven Russell

>Hello Joe,

Most commercial end grain sealers are repackaged (from bulk) versions of UC Coatings Anchorseal, or Exxon-Mobil's Mobil-Cer M offering. I'm not specifically aware of Rocklers product, however, most products are identical to the name brand versions (with a different label) and I would let your pocketbook guide your choice.

Its far more important to properly apply the product, than to mull the differences (if any) in the various products available. Some turners (in my experience) do not apply end grain sealers properly and therefore, do not achieve the high level of protection on their logs or blanks, that these products can deliver.

Two widely available commercial wax emulsion sealers are Anchorseal, by UC Coatings Corporation, and Mobil-Cer M, by Exxon-Mobil Oil Company. Anchorseal is paraffin based colloidal solution for logs and lumber. It contains paraffin, water and a surfactant and is milky-white in appearance.

Mobil-Cer M is a microcrystalline wax based coating. It contains microcrystalline wax, water and a surfactant and is also milky-white in appearance. Winter formulations of these products may also contain anti-freeze agents.

I would caution you about purchasing versions of either of these products that do not contain anti-freeze, if you live in an area that may possibly experience freezing temperatures in the storage area you use for the unused product.

Additionally, thinning the products are not recommended, but if you wish to dilute the sealer, always add the water to the wax emulsion, never emulsion to the water. Dilution water generally should not exceed 100 ppm CaC03, or the wax may separate from the emulsion.

Avoid storage areas that have abnormally high heat levels (such as near a radiator, or furnace), as this may cause separation of the product. Good luck to you and all the best to you and yours!

Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry...

Steven D. Russell

Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio and Advanced Research Laboratory

The Woodlands, Texas

Email: benzer@flash.net

How do we apply it correctly Dr. Russell?

Jay in Ohio

>

Micro what?

Joe in a Cleveland Suburb

>Uhg. You made my brain hurt! :)

Thanks for the info.

Joe

Re: Micro what?

Steven Russell

>Hello Joe,

Please accept my apologies if you were confused by my posting... This should clear everything up for you. :-)

Macrocrystalline Wax (Paraffin Wax) is a petroleum wax made from deoiled slack wax, which is derived by dewaxing base distillate lube oil streams of predominantly straight chain alkanes.

Paraffin wax is brittle and has a low melting point between 46 and 71 degrees Centigrade. Paraffin waxes impart high resistance to moisture. Due to their low cost, paraffins are frequently added to other wax blends.

Microcrystalline Wax is a petroleum wax containing branched and cyclic saturated hydrocarbons, as well as normal alkanes from deoiled residual bright stock lube oil streams. Microcrystalline waxes have a crystalline structure much smaller than totally natural waxes and have a very high resistance to moisture, alcohol, acids and fingerprints.

Microcrystalline waxes are obtained from the residual fraction of crude oil distillation (Petrolatum), or from crude oil tank bottoms. Hard grade microcrystalline wax (from crude oil tank bottoms) has a penetration of less than 11 dmm at 25 degrees Centigrade and a melting point of approximately 60 to 93 degrees Centigrade. Plastic grades of microcrystalline wax (from Petrolatums) have penetrations greater than 11 dmm at 25 degrees Centigrade.

Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry...

Steven D. Russell

Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio and Advanced Research Laboratory

The Woodlands, Texas

Email: benzer@flash.net

Re: How do we apply it correctly Dr. Russell?

Steven D. Russell

>Hello Jay,

Wax emulsion sealers can be applied by various methods including brush-on, dip tank, roll-on, spray-on and vacuum assisted. Correct application procedures are essential to obtain maximum protection from the wax coating.

Wax emulsions must be applied as soon as the log is cut for maximum protection. Application of the sealer to dried log surfaces will reduce the overall protection level achieved and may not stop the continued progression of any existing surface checks.

For best results, cut surfaces should be as smooth as possible. For very rough surfaces, spraying will generally produce a more uniform coating than brushing.

If the cut ends of logs have dried, or are already showing surface checking; a fresh cut should be made to eliminate surface checks, before application of the log sealer for best results.

Wax sealers can be easily brushed onto the exposed end grain, or side grain surfaces of logs, turning squares or bowl blanks. For an optimum surface coating, the cut surfaces should be as smooth as possible. If the exposed end grain is very rough, jagged, or dirty, a fresh crosscut should be made before applying the wax emulsion.

Excess sawdust or debris should be brushed off before applying the sealer. In addition, if any checking is evident on the exposed end grain, the end should be cut back to a point past any surface checking.

Because even smooth surfaces cut on a chainsaw or bandsaw still have a ridged surface, you should brush the sealer on in a crosshatch pattern (first up and down, then back and forth) to insure uniform coverage. The sealer should be applied onto the end grain until it nearly runs off. Applying too thin a coating will reduce the protection level and may compromise the successful seasoning of the timber.

If any bubbles are present in the surface, brush across the area again until the bubbles are completely removed. Bubbles left in the wet film will burst when the coating dries, which may cause differential moisture gradients to form between thicker and thinner areas in the surface coating. These differential moisture gradients cause uneven drying zones across the face of the end grain and subsequent surface checking may develop.

If you wish to apply two coats to the surface, do not allow the first coat to fully dry before applying the second coat for best results.

When brushing the sealer on the end grain portion of resawn turning squares, or bowl blanks, also coat �" to 1" of the exposed adjacent side grain. This insures a better coating on the area where the end grain and side grain areas meet. Brushing becomes inefficient when the logs are more than 12" in diameter. When applying the sealer to larger logs, it�s far more efficient to roll the sealer on, or on very large logs, to spray it on.

Standard 9" paint rollers make excellent applicators for medium to large sized logs and blanks. My favourite roller is the type sold for painting in tight areas. It is approximately 4" long and works exceptionally well for any but the largest of logs.

Rollers can apply the coating much faster and more uniformly than hand brushing. In addition, because the nap on the roller is available in different sizes, rough or uneven cut log surfaces can be more easily and uniformly covered.

Many turners make the mistake of thinning wax emulsions and thereby reduce the products overall effectiveness. Using these products in the viscosity provided from the manufacturer, is the best way to insure proper film thickness on treated surfaces.

Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry...

Steven D. Russell

Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio and Advanced Research Laboratory

The Woodlands, Texas

Email: benzer@flash.net

Thank you!

Jay in Ohio

>Steven,

Thank you, although I didn't know about putting on the second coat before the first dried. Would you evven give the first coat time to "set-up"?

Thanks,

Jay Kilpatrick in Dayton, Ohio

Re: Thank you!

Steven D. Russell

>Hello Jay,

Yes, the first coat should set-up for a wee bit before you attempt to apply the second coat. The amount of time required between the first and second coats varies, but the easy way to tell is when the first coat is just beginning to look dry. Some areas will appear somewhat clear, but some will still be left milky white in appearance.

Do not immediately apply the second coat or you will not get the build you are looking for... After a few times, it will become easy to tell when you can apply the second coating. When it's very hot outside, you may be able to apply the second coating in a scant minute or two. Other times, it may take several minutes before the primary coating has set-up enough to accept the second coating.

Do not let the first coating dry fully before applying the second coat. If the first coat has fully set-up, the second coat will tend to bead-up, thereby thwarting your efforts to lay on the second coating efficiently.

Remember, cold wax emulsions have a lot of water in them and water will bead-up on waxed surfaces (think the dry first coating). This is why you let the first coat set-up a wee bit, but not completely. Good luck to you and all the best to you and yours!

Better Woodturning and Finishing Through Chemistry...

Steven D. Russell

Eurowood Werks Woodturning Studio and Advanced Research Laboratory

The Woodlands, Texas

Email: benzer@flash.net