Oval or Radius Skew?

Re: Oval or Radius Skew?

John U.

>Get the one with the rolled edges -- it's essentially rectangular flat bar, with the sharp corners rounded over.

Re: Oval or Radius Skew?

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>Wayne,

I want to understand your question. Are you trying to compair a skew with an oval "Body" to tone with a square one with radiused edges? Or are you talking about a Radiused cutting edge?

If it is the former, I have both, and am only slighly past the "Scared as hell with a skew" mode, but I really do not find much difference. My oval skew is sharpened with a long angle, and is my choice when I am working long cylinders, or tapers. The other has an about a 35-40 deg angle on it, and is the weapon of choice for beads and the like. Either works fine for V's.

If you are talking about a Raffen style radiused cutting edge, I would stay away from it. Is is fairly good for cylinders and tapers, but not worth a damn for V's and Beads, because it is hard as hell to see and work with the points - which is what you are cutting with or near.

I took a couple of rotations at the Turning Southern Style with Earnie Newman, also from Austrialia, and a real skew expert, and he says that Raffen has even moved away from the radiused cutting edge.

Hope this helped,

Mark

Clarification.

Wayne in W.N.Y.

>I should have clarified that I am wanting an opinion about the radiused cutting edge as opposed to the radiused edge skews that have the edges rounded on the flat of the skew.

Thanks for the input.

Wayne

Re: Clarification.

Fog Tanner

>Wayne,

I have both types of skews, rounded edge and square. All have radiused cutting edges like Raffin uses today, not like on his tapes. He ground one of mine and I compared it to his. There is a slight radius, not the real radical like before. I haven't found a lot of difference in the round and square edges. You can take your square edge and just break the corner on the grinder, another Raffinism. Main thing is to watch the cutting edge in cutting beads.

I use a 40 degree angle as this is not as prone to catches as the 30 degree. Good rule of thumb is the bevel should be around 1.5 times the thickness. This is really a starting point and go from there until it works for you.

Re: Oval or Radius Skew?

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Matter of choice. Both the radiused edge and the straight edge are the choice of some very good turners. If you've been using the straight edge I suggest that you grind an edge with a radius and try it. Some say that the radiused edge is a little more aggressive when making a planing cut because it has a "leading edge".

Wally

Re: Oval or Radius Skew?

Keith Tompkins

>HI Wayne, I grind mine straight across, I really don't feel a need to create an arc.

Peter Child (yep, I'm dating myself) promoted the use of a straight chisel; in other words, a skew ground straight across instead of at an angle. It works very well for planing cuts. You'll have to make one out of a heavy scraper or modify a regular skew.

I think there is a lot of misinformation regarding the skew....that's the reason so many turners have trouble with it. I will be demo'ing some of my skew techniques in Orlando....I think it will be interesting.

The best way to learn to use a skew is to turn spheres. You will observe the only comfortable way to do it is to LOWER the tool rest. Once you master the sphere, learn to do it lefty!

Re: Oval or Radius Skew?

John Lucas

>I'll give you my views on skews. It might conflict with others and that's fine. I'm baseing this on my personal experiences and they may vary from others.

I like my skews to be ground round on the bottom. When you are turning beads the skew rotates around the pivot point. If you have a large pivot point you have to move the skew handle further to finish the side. A square edge is the ultimate example of this. Imagine rolling a box. You go from one corner to another. That's quite a distance. If the box was oval shaped you would rock it on a pivot point quite small.

I've have an oval skew and a flat skew that has the bottom ground. I don't notice any difference in the way they handle. The oval skew is harder to sharpen because it want's to roll on the tool rest. Once you learn to control it both are easy to sharpen. I've heard that a flat skew has more mass and therefore less vibration but I can't tell it.

I've tried curved and straight edges. I prefer straight. The straight edge is easier for me to sharpen and I can roll a bead easier with the heel portion. I also find the toe easier to control when I'm cutting deep narrow coves. That's a different discussion altogether.

I've heard that the curved skew has a smaller cut when planing because of the curve and this makes it cut cleaner. The actual cutting are for a curved skew might be 2 or 3 mm while the flat skew might be 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 mm. Not enough to tell the difference in my hands.

The most important thing about the skew is not shape but sharpness and rubbing the bevel.

Re: Oval or Radius Skew?

Keith Tompkins

>Hi John, I agree with you....I round off the bottom of my skew, but I stop short of the cutting edge. I also hone top and bottom, as well as the two sides. Having the two points sharp is useful to me.

I think most problems people (generally speaking) have with the skew are: 1. Inexperience at sharpening. The tool must be sharp, honing isn't optional, it's a requirement. 2. It's difficult to hold the tool in one hand and sharpen it with a pocket stone or diamond card. I prefer to use a secured bench stone, moving the tool while keeping the bevel flat on the stone. One side, then the other in long even passes. This avoids rounding over the bevels, which makes the tool unpredictable during use. You KNOW the tool is getting sharp enough when a "wire"edge is formed. A finer stone, and then a buffing wheel with compound will easily remove it.

I use a skew with the cutting action right AT the centerline of the piece. The bevel is rubbing at all times, and the handle is braced against my hip. With my style, I never have to raise or lower the handle to finish a cut, I use my whole body for control. I turn spheres this way, starting at the center and cutting in either direction to form the sphere. As I cut, I roll the tool to prevent the "long "edge from contacting the piece.

This method is unconventional, and according to many turners, all wrong. I am at times cutting directly into end grain, a practice warned against by Richard Raffan, and others. However, I am not limited by the height of my toolrest, I can create any shape I want, I don't think about catches; they are rare.

If you are thinking of attempting this, try it with the lathe off, rotating the piece by hand to see the effect. If your skew won't peel off shavings, you aren't sharp enough.

A final thought.. I have read and seem demo's with claims that a shear scraper can produce a finish as fine as a skew. It can't. Not even close.