Power sanding

Re: Power sanding

Joel Hunnicutt

>I have used the Vic wood passive sander for several years and really like it. I just got a milwaukee close quarter drill and old Vic is spending time on the shelf. The Milwaukee is faster and has better control than anything I've ever used.

Re: Power sanding

Richard Allen

>Hi John

I like the pads from "Industrial Abrasives" They cost $5.50 each (2") and they have the firmness (or softness depending on you point of view) that I like. I find the Sorby pads to be too hard and way to costly. There are a lot of different options for power sanding. Start with something generic to get a good feel for how power sanding works. Then experiment with the different options like the wave or making your own discs or differnt pads and different density foam. You will find something that works for you. You may find that some setups work better for different woods and different shapes.

One tip. Slow the lathe down and let the abrasive do it's work.

Thanks

Richard

Re: Power sanding *LINK*

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>John,

I spent 1/2 an hour writing a good response to you, and then lost it before I could post it.

Here is a shorter version:

All of it is my opinion and experience - so take it for what it is worth.

Powersand - absolutely - where ever you can get the drill or drill extension to fit. I powersand from 60 grit (if necessary) to 600 grit (because that is the highest grit I can find with hook and loop). I use a Milwaukee Close Quarter Drill. I use the Industrial Abrasives pads. David Peebles recommends another one, that I always aske him about, and always forget the name of. If you are ever at one of the Woodworking Shows, see the Sanding Glove people, they sell the Industial Abrasives disks, and make/sell a reallly great drill extension.

Above 600 grit I hand sand, on the lathe - bowl spinning.

Self Powered sanders - Make your own. Drill and 1/4" hole in a piece of broom stick/dowel. Put a dab of paste wax in the hole, and then insert a regular sanding disk. I drilled holes at different angles in the stick, and I use this sander in places that I can not get the drill (mostly through small openings in vases, and under the lip of a bowl.

Lastly, do not waste your money on the wavey disks. I used to buy mine at Highland Hardware for about $13 for 50. Now, because Russ Fairfield pointed me to it, I use Hook and Loop paper from Industrial Abrasives. It is cheap - $15.75 for a sheet 1 meter x 1 yard, any grit from 60 - 600. i.e. you can get 350 2" disks from that one sheet (see my tip in the the WC Article and Review - Shop Topics, on how to cut the sheets. http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=shop&file=articles_198.shtml) This article tells how to cut the sheets into 2" squares. I leave them square, and they work just like the wavey disks when left square.

The Industrial Abrasive sandpaper is not only cheap, but is good paper. The big advantage of cheap paper, is you will change it when it needs to be changed, instead of working an expensive disk past its time.

Mark


http://www.industrialabrasives.com/01713.html?SESSIONID=3a0d8304f825ce3c9ce56e005aee4637

Re: Power sanding *LINK*

Peter Teubel

>Mark Kauder wrote:

"I powersand from 60 grit (if necessary) to 600 grit (because that is the highest grit I can find with hook and loop)."

======================================

Check out the link below. They have velcro backed discs to 3000 grit


Royce Sales (Canada)

Re: Power sanding

Greg

>Mark,

Thanks for the useful info. I had not seen Russ's info on buying from that company, so thanks for repeating it.....good stuff! Unfortunately I just bought a bunch through Royce Sales, that Peter mentioned. However, I'll go your suggested route next time. Thanks!

Re: Power sanding

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>Thanks for the pointer.

Mark

Re: Power sanding

Rick R, So Cal

>John,

For sanding disks, I cut my own hook and loop disks out of Klingspor (www.woodworkingshop.com) bargain box end rolls. I bought 10 lbs of the stuff (5lbs for $10.95) and received 60 to 320 grit, with only a couple of grits missing. It is excellent paper. It can be found on their web site under Bargains/Misc paper rolls PSA-odd sizes, item# BB11000. No need to cut perfect circles; in fact sloppy cutting tends to do the same thing as what the expensive wave-cut disks are supposed to do.

For the mandrels and sanding pads, see Darrel Feltmate's web site (www.roundthewoods.com)- this is the system I use. Basically, you make your own hook and loop foam pads which are quickly attached/detached from the mandrel with a quarter-turn. They are very easy to make, cheap and effective.

To spin the mandrel, most turners use a drill such as the Milwaukee angle drill. I use a flex drive, driven by a variable speed DC motor that is suspended overhead on a swing arm. It is much lighter and quieter than a drill. I bought the flex drive sold by Lee Valley for around $50.

There are lots of choices out there... have fun choosing.

Rick

Tim Skilton pads *LINK*

Dave Peebles Lyons,Ohio

>Here is the link for the Tim Skilton sanding pads. They are the best I have used.

I get them from Steve Worchester. They have just the right amount of (give) to them... for me, and they last a long, long time. I had the Sorby pads at first, but they seemed to come apart too soon for me.

Best wishes,

Dave


http://www.turningwood.com/sanding.htm

Re: Tim Skilton pads

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>Thanks Dave, I bookmarked it this time.

Mark

Re: Tim Skilton pads

Dave Peebles Lyons,Ohio

>Hi Mark,

If not for bookmarks, I'd have no memory at all. :)

Dave

Thanks to everyone who responded!

John F.

>Thanks to everyone who responded, lots to think about.

I went with the pads from Industrial Abrasives and bought the 25pack discs in all the grits that I use.

I will be buying the sheets later and cutting my own discs later when money is more plentiful.

thanks again, John