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Natural Edge bowl question

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Natural Edge bowl question

#1

Natural Edge bowl question

Greg

>I have a piece of wet cherry, with the bark on it, and I want to turn a natural edged bowl with it. However, I don't know if I should turn this to final size and finish it, or turn it with thick walls, and then finish it after it's dry. Secondly, if I should finish turn it while wet, what is the best type of finish to use on it? Thanks!

Re: Natural Edge bowl question

#2

Re: Natural Edge bowl question

Marc Phillips

>I turn all of my natural edge bowls wet and then finish them immediately...

I use Briwax, BLO, and CA on the bark...

Marc

Re: Natural Edge bowl question

#3

Re: Natural Edge bowl question

GeeSeaWhy

>If you turn the bowl so it keeps getting wider towards the rim, the two high points on the rim will be further apart than the two low points - your bowl will be oval to begin with. When it dries, shrinkage across the grain will make it even more oval, making it more difficult to finish if you rough-turned it and let it dry. If you turn it all in one go, the shrinkage will add to the oval effect. That, to my mind, is attractive and has people wondering how you did it. Not at all the same as a formal bowl which was obviously meant to be round but isn't.

I would use Formby's Tung Oil Finish, because that's what I use on most of my pieces and because it looks good on cherry.

Graeme

Re: Natural Edge bowl question

#4

Re: Natural Edge bowl question

Peter Teubel

>95% of my work is green-turned natural edge bowls. I turn to finished thickness, use a heat gun to dry the surface enough to keep the sandpaper from clogging, sand to completion, and apply finish the same day (Formby's Tung Oil Finish or WaterLox) followed by two or three more coats of finish over 3 days. In a week or so its dry, so I then buff with the Beall system. If the bottom has warped too much (rocks on a flat surface), I resand the bottom on my belt sander, re-sign my name, refinish, and buff.

Occasionally, I will come across some REALLY wet stuff that defies heat-gun drying (usually Box Elder). I will then turn to 1/2" thickness and just shelve the bowls for a week in the shop (no bagging of anything). I'll then re-turn to completion.

Re: Natural Edge bowl question

#5

Re: Natural Edge bowl question

Greg

>Thanks guys! I'll let you know how it goes, hopefully with a picture of a completed bowl, too.

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