Gonna try and beat a dead horse here...

Re: Gonna try and beat a dead horse here...

Fred L. - North Carolina

>I don't know what diameter hole you need for the metal part of the handle. Of course boring such a long hole is difficult to say the least. A hole 2 ft long is bound to come out the side of the wood before it reaches the other end.

For one thing it is better to start with a piece of wood that is substantially thicker than the desired finished piece. The idea is to bore the hole and then mount it on a mandrel. The mandrel can be simply a metal rod or dowel mounted between centers or chucked in one end and a live center in the other. Then turn to finished size. I undertand that is how they turn flutes (musical instrument).

In metal working there is an end mill type that has a pilot shaft sticking out of the middle. The pilot goes into a previously drilled hole, and accurately guides the cutter along the way. Maybe a machinist can take a spade bit and add a pilot shaft to it. Spade bits will normally wander, but with the pilot they are forced to follow the pilot hole.

If you can drill a reasonably centered hole in the oversize wood, say 3/8" in dia, and then use the spade bit with pilot, you MIGHT get a nice hole that will allow you to mount the piece on a mandrel.

On another note, I have seen auger bits used in construction that are quite long. The design allows for the chips to exit through the middle of the auger. You might find one of these.

A large metal lathe is good for doing some of this work. A round but oversized dowel can be mounted in a metal lathe, using a steady rest that is usually available. A pilot hole is drilled and then a boring bar used to enlarge it to size.

Last idea: wrap the metal tube with veneer until you get the wanted thickness, glueing as you wrap. When the glue sets, mount on the lathe and sand it round.

I am sure there are other solutions. The handles I have made from pipe have been covered with a piece of PVC pipe. Sinple and cheap.

Hope one of these ideas helps.

FredL (tinkerer)

Re: Gonna try and beat a dead horse here...

William R. Duffield, on the Cohansey

>As Fred recommends, drill the hole first, then turn it on a mandrel.

Instead of drilling a deep, deep hole, have you considered ripping your handle blank in two and hollowing a half round in each half with a cove bit in a router, and then gluing it back together and turning the surface? If your woodworking is directed only towards turning, I realize this suggestion may be impractical, because you may not have the requisite equipment in your shop.

Review waiting to be "published" here

Dominic Greco in Richboro PA

>David,

I gather from your post, it looks like you were looking for input about Glaser gouges. Especially from those who have used these gouges on a day to day basis.

I wrote a Short Review of a 5/8" Glaser Deep Bowl Gouge back in November of 2003. (Garrett tells me the review will be published on WoodCentral's Article Section as soon as they wade through their backlog.)

Since that time, I've also received a Glaser 3/8" deep bowl gouge. Both have become my "go to" gouges, with my other gouges watching jealously from the tool rack. :>)

The 5/8" works awesomely for roughing out bowls, and the 3/8" as well for fine detail work. I have only good things to say about them both. The anodized aluminum lead filled handles really do dampen the vibrations. I find that especially useful when shear scraping with the 5/8" gouge.

The A-11 Tool Steel Jerry uses for these gouges constantly amazed me at it's capacity to resist dulling. Even when working on really tough woods like dried Osage Orange and dried Hickory. I find myself sharpening less and turning more.

See ya around,

Dominic

Re: Gonna try and beat a dead horse here...

BubbaBob

>I'm curious...since you are a TD student like me, why not stick with Sorby like we were taught? It does the job well and doesn't make you figger out something different.

BubbaBob

There is woodworking besides...

BubbaBob

>...turning? The only tool in your shop is the lathe. All else are accessories.

BubbaBob

Just out of curiosity?

Joel Hunnicutt

>Why change the handle? I've got a 5/8 and the handle is equal to the a-11 steel in my opinion. It sometimes get a bit cold, but I turn wearing framers gloves, so that's not a problem.

Re: Gonna try and beat a dead horse here...

David Hammond, in Powder Springs GA

>Thanks for the great suggestions Fred - I'm still undecided about what I'm going to do, but I appreciate the info!

David

Re: Gonna try and beat a dead horse here...

John Lucas

>David

I won't have time to read all the other posts and someone else may have mentioned this but you can buy plywood cylinders in lots of sizes. I don't know if they sell them this small. Plywood doesn't move like solid wood. If you glue solid wood to metal your going to have a problem as the seasons change. I'll be that's why oneway uses plastic.

Re: Gonna try and beat a dead horse here...

David Hammond, in Powder Springs GA

>Thanks William - I am not opposed to doing something off the lathe (gasp!) so your idea is a good one. I need to draw out the details before I figure out exactly how I want to do this - but thanks for the ideas!

David

Re: Review waiting to be "published" here

David Hammond, in Powder Springs GA

>Thanks Dom - any of your reviews are always helpful, and I appreciatte the link to your Glaser review. I read it originally, but I just read it again. Sounds like a Glaser is what I need - something to dampen vibration, and to hog of some serious material! Thanks for a great review!

David

Re: Gonna try and beat a dead horse here...

David Hammond, in Powder Springs GA

>Hey BubbaBob, I do use that Sorby a lot, and I like it, but for me it's not heavy enough for the big, rough stuff that I'm roughing out. That cherry end grain stump for example - also, I'm turning on a VB36, and I know she can handle taking off a lot more wood than a half inche wide shaving. I max out the width of the tool constantly, and I'd like to be able to come closer to using the full power sitting there, to speed up the roughing process. I'm a skinny little guy, I can't even get the scales to reach 130 lbs, but on the VB I can lean all I've got into the VB, and I'm maxing out my gouge way before the drive train even feels I'm there - I'd like to use that power!

David - not hanging up my Sorby, just adding a specific tool for a specific purpose.

Re: Just out of curiosity?

David Hammond, in Powder Springs GA

>Well, I'm not just opposed to the Glaser handle, not at all. But I don't like the idea of the cold metal for one thing, and my shop isn't heated at all right now, so that would definetly be a negative right now. I could wear gloves, but I'm not accustomed too, and I'd rather not change... Also, I just like the aesthetics and warmth of wood - I know I'm making this more complicated than neccessary, but I want the best of both worlds: the highest quality steel, lead and weight to work against the vibration, and wood for it's feel, and looks - also the ease of replacing the tool steel when it gets worn down.

David

Re: Gonna try and beat a dead horse here...

David Hammond, in Powder Springs GA

>Hmm, good thoughts John - thanks. Still trying to figure out what I want to do though.

David

Veneer Wrap !

Fred L. - North Carolina

>You can wrap the handle with veneer, glueing as you go along, and then flatten and sand on the lathe. . . .

Re: Veneer Wrap !

David Hammond, in Powder Springs GA

>That idea I really like guys! I've got the BS to cut my own custom veneer - in fact, I've got some really nice cherry flitches I cut up the other day, that would do nicely... Hmmm, that's why I come here - thanks guys!

David

Re: Veneer Wrap !

Fred L. - North Carolina

>David:

That is why I come here ! When all kinds of ideas are posted you can choose the one that fits your needs.

The veneer wrapping idea actually came from PEN MAKING, of course in a much smaller scale. Actually, I have never heard of anybody else using this technique. It is actually pretty much like making round plywood (excepting for the grain orientation in the plys.)

My wishes for a camera so I can post decent photos might come true this weekend.

Best regards,

FredL

Re: There is woodworking besides...

William R. Duffield, on the Cohansey

>I guess it depends on how well accessorized your shop is :^)

What about a 3/4" Texas handled Sorby?

TDaniel

>

A couple of ideas

Richard Allen

>Hi David

For me the Glaser handles are the best handles available. You can get un handled Glaser gouges but I would recommend getting and trying a Glaser gouge with the Glaser handle for a couple of weeks before you abandon the handle. One of the things I very much like about the Glaser handle is the shape lets me set the tool down on the bed of the lathe without concern that the tool will roll away. That issue might not be important to you with a VB36 lathe.

I think the Hamlet 2360 steel is comparable to the Glaser steel and a lot cheaper. If it weren't for the Glaser handle I would get the Hamlet tools un handled and make, or buy a handle for the tool.

The best handle material I have ever used is cork. The feel of cork is like nothing else. It warms to the hand quickly, responds to a light touch but also responds to a tight grip. Cork transmits "feel" to the hand without adding any weight so you can place weight were you like without the handle material dictating where the weight will be.

You want wood and wood is of course a terrific material for a wood turning handle. On the question of how do you make a giant pen blank into a lathe tool handle? I use a ship auger bit to drill a 1 1/16" hole 10" deep for kaleidoscopes. I first drill a small pilot hole with a 12" long 3/8" bit. I then follow that hole with the big ship auger. The key I have found to drilling a long deep hole is to let the drill bit do the work. Don't force the bit. If I were going to drill a long 3/4" or 1" hole through for a long handle I would use a lamp auger to dill a pilot hole. Then center on the pilot hole and drill it out with a ship auger from each end.

The cork idea has me thinking that you could make the wood handle out of several shorter pieces. Take your handle material and drill as described above to 5" or 6" and then part off the drilled piece. Drill another 5" or 6" and part off. continue the process till you had enough hollow handle material to cover the metal handle. Then just glue it all on the metal core along with gluing the ends of the pieces to each other. Try to match the grain and such. Turn the handle on your lathe to the profile you desire.

Serious Lathe makes a handle with a collet lock for holding a variety of different sized tools. Your machinist friend might be able to make something like that.

Serious Lathe also makes some large bowl gouges including a 1" bowl gouge that could expel huge ribbons of green wood. The Serious Lathe steel is A2 steel which is a high performance high carbon steel. Certainly not the edge holding characteristics of a Glaser gouge.

Good luck David I know you are going to like the Glaser gouge. It is a pleasure to use.

Richard

Re: A couple of ideas

Fred L. - North Carolina

>Richard:

Cork is a great idea ! I will try that on mine.

Thanks,

FredL

Re: A couple of ideas

David Hammond, in Powder Springs GA

>Thanks Richard - some great info in your post - and I really like the idea of cork... Hmm, too many options here! I just looked through Packard's catalog, and "found" those Hamlet hollowing handles... The Goliath handle is just about exactly what I'm looking for. So I'm not sure what I'll do. We'll see - the journey is the best part isn't it?

David

Lookin' for more weight in the handle...

David Hammond, in Powder Springs GA

>

Re: Lookin' for more weight in the handle...

TDaniel

>David, I have a One-way handle that is heavy. There are a lot of turners that like this handle but it never grew on me. I find that most people choke up on the handle too far when taking agressive cuts. For me, I like the extra long handle that gives me the leverage to take a heavy cut without a lot of effort but I don't like holding up a heavy handle for a long period of time. I can easily stall my 3 hp lathe with my 3/4" Sorby Texas handled gouge on some woods. In removing a lot of wood fast there are other factors in addition to the width of the cut; these are: thickness of cut and speed of cut. If you continue turning stumps (not likely) the extra edge holding ability would be important.

Re: Gonna try and beat a dead horse here...

John Lucas

>David

If your not hung up on wood bicycle handlebar tape works really well. Get some good quality stuff from bike shops not the junk from walmart. The good stuff has antivibration characteristics and has a sticky backing so it's easy to apply.