>I read the discussion earlier on using CA on wasteblocks. I was wondering if this would work with gluing the wasteblock to a green blank. Maybe using Russ Fairfield's suggestion by using both thick and thin. Also, I read somewhere you could use a hair dryer on a green blank to partially dry the surface of the blank just before gluing to a faceplate. Anyone ever heard of this? I use faceplates since I don't have a 4 jaw chuck and titebond will not hold a green blank.
>Titebond-II is an excellent adhesive for attaching waste-blocks. If the wood is still moist, the two wood surfaces can be dried with a hair dryer or heat gun. This will dry the wood sufficiently for a good glue bond, and it will be cured enough to be "water resistant" by the time the moisture has migrated back into the joint area. The joint will not hold together forever in the presence of the wood moisture, but it will last several days, long enough to turn a piece in the lathe.
>Wasteblocks, CA glue, and green wood is another of those things where it depends..... Yes, I know there are those of us who have been doing this for years, but there is always "the rest of the story".
CA glue is sensitive to its environment and the moisture in the wood. Beside having a good fit between the pieces of wood, there is the question of how wet is "wet" wood?? Was the wood fresh cut yestersay, last week, or last month? How was it stored? Are there any signs of mold or mildew starting to show anywhere on the wood?
And through all of this is also the question of the glue that we are using. Not all CA is created equal, and some brands will work better in the presence of moisture than others.
CA does not bond well in the presence of surface water. Besides the water preventing penetration into the wood, it acts as a catalyst (accelerator) and the CA cures before it has any chance to attach itself to the wood.
Somewhere between dripping wet and equilibrium moisture content there is a point where we can start getting an adequate bond to the wood with a CA glue. But we have to recognize that there are locations where the temperature and humidity are such that the moisture content in the wood may never be lowered to this point. In such cases, drying the surface with a hair dryer before applying the glue can help to give us a better glue joint, and it can make the difference in not getting a bond at all.
Here is where the "Thick and thin" is useful. Put the "thin" on the green wood. It has a better chance of penetration through the moisture in the wood, and it acts as a surface preparation. The "thin" CA is bonding to the wood, and the "thick" CA is bonding to the "thin". If the wateblock is a dry wood, the bond will be better than if either were used alone.
Drying the surface with the hair dryer can also be used on dripping wet wood, but this is only a temporary fix because the moisture will migrate back and destroy the glue bond in the joint. Don't wait too long if you are using CA to hold the wasteblock to wet wood. Again, it is a matter of how wet is "wet". Overnight can be "too long" if the wood is really wet. Again, you will have a better chance of success by using the "Thick and Thin" CA glues.
CA glue does not do well with mildew. Storage and age becomes important because there are some climates where mildew will start almost immediately on some wood species. Even though it cannot be seen, the mold spores act as a catalyst and the CA will have a flash cure at the wood surface with little if any penetration into the wood. It is always a good idea to make a cut across the surface and open up a new wood surface before bonding a wasteblock with CA glue, no matter where you live.
>I use GORILLA GLUE and it works great all my wood is wet here in peru there is not dry wood unless you air dry I had trouble gluing up until a guy KERRY VESPER (see his web page under his name)told me about gorilla try it !ED