CA glue for wasteblocks?

Re: CA glue for wasteblocks?

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>Joel, I have been using CA for about the past year, since Wally suggested it. It works fine, but seems to work better if you do not use the accellerator. The Accellerator seems to make the CA more brittle, and somewhat more prone to failing. On the Cherry and Black Palm bowl that I posted earler in the week - I had used the accellerator on the waste block. Once while gluing on a ring, I dropped the bowl onto my workbench, not much of a drop, but it was a sharp rap, and the wasteblock parted off, just a cleanly as could be. I glued it back on, was able to center it almost perfectly, but a couple of days later I accidentally rapped the faceplate on the bed of the lathe, and the faceplate again came of cleanly. I glued it on again and was able to finish the bowl.

This was the only problem that I have ever had.

Mark

Here's how I do it.

Russ Fairfield

>The strongest CA joints that I have seen for attaching waste-blocks use both the "Thin" and "Thick" types at the same time. The adjoining surfaces are made as close to flat as we can get them by using the lathe, a hand-plane, or whatever other means. "Thick" CA is spread on one surface, and a similar coat of "Thin" CA is squirted on the other. The waste-block is then quickly put together with the wood and moved around to spread the "thick" CA into an even film. It is then clamped or weighted in place and allowed sit for about 10-minutes before mounting the piece in the lathe. It isn't "instant" but it is a stronger and safer joint than one that is.

Re: Here's how I do it.

Joel Hunnicutt

>I thought it was you're post about the tick and think glue, but I couldn't remember the details. Thanks.

Mark, my one try with a CA glueblock was like the one you described, that's why I never tried it again.

Re: Here's how I do it.

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>Thanks Russ for posting those instructions.

Joel, what I did not tell you in our weekly emails, or in the post, was that after the second time that the Cherry Bowl let go, I determined that this glue joint would not let fo again, so after I glued it on that second time, using a drill mounted in the tailstock, I drilled a 7/8" hole through the bottom of the bowl, and well into the waste block. I then turned a 7/8" dowel from Black Palm, and CA glued it through the bowl and into the base. A floating round tenon for cross grain support!! It made a nice design feature in the bottom of the bowl that my wife really liked.

Mark

Re: CA glue for wasteblocks?

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Joel, I've been using glue blocks in my turning for a long time and I just about never have a failure. I use medium visc. I also have my students use them in classes, and I've found that if there is a failure it's almost always because not enough glue was used. Put lots on both surfaces and don't clamp it. Just use a little hand pressure. I always use accelerator, and mount the piece on the lathe immediately. I've noticed that if one of my students knocks a bowl off the lathe, (yeah, it happens) and if the glue joint was properly done, the glue block splits and the glue joint holds.

Wally

Re: CA glue for wasteblocks?

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>I should mention that if I use a glue block on an end grain turning, I cut a 1 inch wide tenon, about 1/4 inch deep, on the blank, to be inserted into a matching opening on the glue block. However, I don't use glue blocks on end grain turnings unless they're fairly small.

Wally

Green turning question

Mike Rubes

>Hi Wally,

If I am remembering correctly, most of your work starts green, right? If I am remembering that correctly, do you ever have trouble with the waste block coming off as the base of your bowl/vessel warps as it dries?

I've started doing some green turnings and seem like I am having to leave a fair portion of the "good" wood as the tenon. A waste block would be very nice in this case.

I hope all is well in Arizona, we could actually use a little of your warm weather here about now :)

Mike

Building snowmen in Apex, NC!

Re: Green turning question

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Hi Mike.....Yes, most of my turnings are rough turned from wet wood, then allowed to dry before finish turning. On a rare occasion a piece will warp so badly that I have to remove the glue block and install a new one. Usually not difficult to do.

One of the advantages of using a glue block is that you are able to use the full depth of the blank.

Yep, sunny Green Valley, Az. was 78 deg. today.

Wally

Re: CA glue for wasteblocks?

Bob Hackett

>I`ve used this property of CA glue to my advantage before.When I`m done turning I just hold the piece and block assembly over a soft surface and sharply rap the block.Most times the piece pops right off.I`m talking smaller pieces here.

I read somewhere that while CA glue is tenacious as a bonding agent it does not stand up well to impact.This seems to explain why it will hold thru a catch and yet fracture when rapped .

I make my glue blocks with a recess that fits a shallow tenon that I`ve trued up on the piece.I use the medium CA in a heavy bead just inside the lip of the recess(no accelerator!).If I even suspect the piece is not secure I`ll put either thick CA or hot melt in a bead around the joint.

I`ve found that if I use to thicker glues they don`t penetrate as far and I don`t have to turn away as much wood when I rechuck in order to get a consistant surface.Just something to think about as you plan the piece.

Mainely,Bob

Re: CA glue for wasteblocks?

RonZ

>I use the Bonnie Klein method and it works for me. I screw a waste block on to the faceplate and put it on the lather. With a skew or flat scraper, I make sure the surface is smooth and flat. I then take a pencil and make circles like on a target. I remove it off the lathe and put on thick CA glue on the waste block liberaly. I then take the piece I'm going to attach and rub it on the glued face plate to spread the glue evenly on both the faceplate and the work piece. Then with both pieces apart, I spray both sides with accelerator and quickly place them together using the 'target' on the faceplate as a meeans of centering. After about 20 seconds I'm ready to turn.