Stronghold Spigot Jaws (#1 jaws)

Re: Stronghold Spigot Jaws (#1 jaws)

Bill Howatt

>1" from face and about 2-3/4" maximum diameter.

Bill

Better data

Bill Howatt

>Since I did a quick diameter measurement on mine I checked with the www.nicks.ca site which has Oneway data and they show the diameter as being 2-5/8 instead of 2-3/4" assuming that is the dimension you are after.

2104 STRONGHOLD

Profiled

3/8" - 2" inside

1-1/8" - 2-5/8" outside

Bill

Re: Stronghold Spigot Jaws (#1 jaws)

Richard Allen

>Hi John

I am not sure what the goal is you are looking for. The #1 jaws work great on small items or when stuck to the hilt in a drilled 1" hole. They are a little "flexable". The hold they would have in expansion in a 2 1/2" shallow recess would be quite tenative.

There is a collet jaw set for the Stronghold with different sized inserts (pads). One of them could provide a good grip in a 2 1/2" recess. The collet pads, the part that contacts the wood, are aluminum which won't nick you turning tool. The stand off from the stronghold chuck body is at least an inch.

This might provide the clearance, safety and grip you are looking for. I have a set and I use them in expansion mode a lot.

Richard

Re: Stronghold Spigot Jaws (#1 jaws) *LINK*

John

>Ideally, the Stuart Batty jaws that are shown in the Woodturners Catalog are what I'm looking for, but I fear the $100+ price tag for a set of jaws. I was hoping the spigot jaws would work, but if they flex when expanded into a 2-1/2" recess, I'll lose my own comfort level.

The piece I want to turn is a burl cap with the natural edge down -- it will definitely be out of balance, so I want it to be secured with confidence. I want to turn a groove into bumpy side of the cap, not a full open recess, primarily for the foot design I am considering -- a ring, with the nat. edge of the burl showing through the middle and outside of the ring.

I guess another way to do this is cut the groove, and turn a foot ring to fit the groove, glue it in place, and chuck on the foot ring to turn the inside of the bowl. I was just worried about the strengh of the ring for chucking.....




http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/template/400-2001.html

Re: Stronghold Spigot Jaws (#1 jaws)

Richard Allen

>I think you would be very disapointed if you tried to use the #1 jaws to hold a burl cap as your discribe. The method you describe would be a good choice. Another option is to get the flat plates from Oneway and make wooden jaws that are simular to the Batty jaws (only more beefy where you could get away with the beef).

I have thought of this same chucking before. Using a coreing from the bowl would make a perfect material for the "foot ring". In that case you would need to reverse mount the turning to turn out the glued in mounting to accept the cored out foot ring.

I have a piece of Jahra burl that would look terrific that way. If I ever get around to it I will take a picture.

If you could take pictures of your process I would very much like to see them.

Good luck

Richard