Bandsaw blades

Re: Bandsaw blades

TDaniel

>Julie, the Timberwolf 1/4 x 4 teeth per inch will put anything else to shame. Tension according to directions that come with the blade. If you con't have a local source yu can order and they will ship to you. lt me know if you need the number.

TD

Re: Bandsaw blades

Bill Neddow

>Julie, besides the Timberwolf, which is a very good blade, there is the Furniture Band sold b y R&D Bandsaws in Brampton Ont. Canada. (www.tufftooth.com). It is a thicker blade than normal (.032 as opposed to .025 for many) which means it has increased strength and greater fatigue and wear resistance. It also has an extra wide kerf specifically designed to help cut wet stringy fiber found in green wood. The finish is not particularly smooth, but then we are cutting bowl blanks. It goes through wood like butter and I have never had a blade get clogged up in a cut. When I am cutting dry wood, I use a Timberwolf. But the only blade I now use for cutting bowl blanks is the Furniture Band. It comes in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" widths and 3 or 4 teeth per inch. For your use I would choose a 3/8" by 3 tpi. It costs 13 cents per inch (in Canadian currency!). Just ordered three more today.

Re: Bandsaw blades

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>When you talk to them, tell then if you are doing green wood or dry wood - they have a different blade to green wood. It leaves a rough surface, but it sure cuts through it.

Mark

Re: Bandsaw blades

Larry

>I tried the 1/4" and 1/2" industrial silicone steel low tension blades by R&D. They suck! The 1/4 broke on the weld 1st use cutting (it was replaced) an 8/4 blank of kiln dried Padauk (8" diameter. Both blades dulled way too soon and were not abused in any way. Maybe I just got a bad batch but given the shipping charges from Canada to the US, R&D is no bargin. I've been using the WoodCraft 1/4" 4tpi SKIP (not hook) tooth blade for cutting green black walnut and I really like them. I can't see puting $30-$40 into a blade to cut green wood that might have inclusions or dirt or a foreign object buried in it.

Re: Bandsaw blades

Peter Teubel

>Try the regular steel Furniture Band blades from R&D. I've been using them for a couple years now and they are far more cost effective than Timberwolf or anything else I can obtain locally.

Bandsaw Blades *LINK*

Ron Sardo in PA

>Also Check:

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/articles.pl


Bandsaw blades

Re: Bandsaw blades

Bill Neddow

>The furniture bands are quite different from the silicone bands. I also tried the silicone bands and was not impressed. But try the furniture bands -- a totally different experience.

Re: Bandsaw blades

Mike Schwing from Md.

>I'm planning on buying some of these "furniture band" blades everyone is touting. Till then, if you use the Timberwolf blades, (I am), I have found, unlike Terry, that if I tension them according to directions, they bow out on thick blanks and give me a whiskey barrel shaped blank. I have to crank the tension up to get them to cut with no bow. Terry probably has a more "stout" saw than my 14" Jet. (and loads more experience)

Re: Bandsaw blades

John L.

>LOML & I noticed that your email is TDaniel@ellijay.com. That wouldn't be Ellijay, GA by any chance? LOML lived there for a year or so about 20 years ago.

Yep, Ellijay, GA

TDaniel

>I live about 15 miles east of Ellijay, Rich Mountain area.