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Design input, how should I finish this?

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Design input, how should I finish this?

#1

Design input, how should I finish this?

Dave Smith - Longview, WA

>About a year and a half ago I had the pleasure of Wally Dickerman visiting my shop. Wally gave me a piece of 6" x 6" myrtle wood burl. Today I started turning the piece and discovered extensive voids. When I decided which way to mount the block I thought the voids where concentrated on one end. The voids are deeper than I expected. Usually I turn defects out but in this case I am going to leave them in.

The pictures show the basic shape I want. The piece is 6" high. The tenon mounted in the chuck is 3" and the top tenon is 2 1/8". It is 5 3/8" at its widest. I am considering a lid, cut at the widest point, with a finial handle. If I make it a closed vessel I will add a rim of contrasting wood in keeping with Wally�s style. I am open to suggestions for refining the shape of this piece.




Thank you,

Dave Smith

I hope I am not making a camel in Longview, WA.

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

#2

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

RonZ

>I would use CA glue. USe a thin CA first to strengthen the wood and then use thick. If you like black or amber, Starbond has ready made CA in these colors. I put on a layer, accelerate, then another layer and repeat.

Once it rises over the wood, I use a skew to level it with the wood.

Here's an olive wood bowl I did with black Starbond


img

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

#3

Thanks Ron

Dave Smith - Longview, WA

>Hi Ron,

I use black epoxy to fill cracks but in this case I plan to leave them as they are. What I am looking for is input on the shape. You are a year ahead of me right now. We still have an hour to go on the west coast of the USA.

Dave Smith

I get help from all over the world in Longview, WA.

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

#4

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

John Lucas

>Dave

I would turn it as it is. The cracks don't look to bad. I would simply round it more so the foot was smaller and then sand and finish the outside.

When you start hollowing put strapping tape around it to make sure one of the cracks doesn't open up to include the whole room. This should allow you to hollow it with the cracks showing through. I think it will be quite striking.

The cracks will show the thickness to your wall thickness will have to be consistent. Have fun, it looks like the making of a great piece.

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

#5

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

Bill Grumbine, Kutztown PA

>Hi Dave

I agree with John, finish it as it is. It doesn't look like the cracks are going to go anywhere, and truth be told, I have found that hoolow forms with voids are easier to turn for two reasons. First, the dust comes flying out the holes, and second, it is easier to see what your wall thickness is. I would also suggest smaller diameter for the bottom.

Bill

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

#6

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

John Trant (aka Boxes-n-Bowls)

>My suggestions:

Make the foot much smaller (about 1/3 the diameter of the width, i.e. about 1-3/4" diameter). If you are making a hollowform, make the opening at the top even smaller than the foot (~1"). If you want to make a lidded box, place the opening well above the point of the greatest diameter.

I would finish it with Watco or a thinned wipe-on/off home brew in order to accent the figure. You do not want to use a film finish because it tends to build up in the voids. I would also suggest that you stay away from a glossy look whenever you have something with lots of textures (natural or handmade).

John

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

#7

Accentuate The Positive...

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Hi Dave....Glad to see that you're finally turning the Myrtlewood blank. I had several blanks of the same Mytrlewood, complete with voids. Here's a pic of one of the finished pieces. I filled the voids with turquoise to accentuate what Mother Nature had started.

Wally


img

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

#8

Thanks for the input

Dave Smith - Longview, WA

>I will be turning the piece today. It appears to be dry but I will know for sure when I start hollowing it. I don't expect any problems but Murphy does frequent my shop.

Nobody had an issue with the basic shape except for the foot which I had planned to make smaller. Hollowing closed vessels with a small opening is not the best thing I do.

Dave Smith

Slow and steady makes less waste in Longview, WA.

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

#9

You set the bar too high, but I will try.

Dave Smith - Longview, WA

>

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

#10

Re: Accentuating????

Mark Mandell - Gone Round in New Jersey

>Hey Wally,

Happy 'n All!

You use actual stone or the Inlace substitute?

Do you mix with binder first or pack into hole and then add the thin binder (CA or epoxy?)??

Mark

drop the 2 for mail

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

#11

Re: Accentuating????

Wally Dickerman at Green Valley, Az.

>Mark, I use actual turquoise. (Hey, I'm in Arizona where most of it comes from). I mix up a heavy paste of turquoise and epoxy and apply it with a small spatula and a used dental tool. When it's set up I power sand it flush with the wood. It's stone, so turning tools don't work. I usually mix in a little gold dust for a nice effect. Pieces with turquoise sell well in Az.

Wally

Re: Design input, how should I finish this?

#12

Re: Crushed Stone?

Mark Mandell - Gone Round in New Jersey

>Hi Wally,

Who do you buy your stone from?

What size - crushed or do you crush and sieve it yourself to different sizes?

Ball Park for prices?

What stone do you use, if any, aside from Turq?

Thanks

Mark

drop the 2 for e-mail

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