At Paul Hamler's scraper demonstration I asked what he used for scraper metal. Answer: hardened 1095 "blue tempered spring steel". This material is available from any place that sells metal working supplies- MSC, Travers, McMaster Carr, etc. I have not made my own scrapers yet but intend to and will use this material.
I bought one several years ago, intending to make myself a compass plane out of it and a spare frog.... but I ended up using it for drywalling when I realized someone had tossed my usual ones (probably because they had not been washed). No doubt the work of the same someone who can't manage to clean paint brushes.... For diplomatic reasons, that person must remain nameless
I bought mine to roll my own backsaw, on an idea from the OldTools list. Instead, it taped the walls of the sunroom I built. It still waits there, mocking me.
How did you plan on filing it? I can't google average hardness of a metal file, but wouldn't be surprised if it wouldn't scratch anything at 50HRC - that's the claimed hardness of drywall knives. A grinding wheel perhaps?
I've been looking for a couple of speciality saws and it looks like they're nowhere to be found. I'm thinking about making them myself, but can't figure proper plate material.
Files are over Rc60. I suspect hand saws are low 50's along with scrapers. I'll ask Weaver the hardness that will be impractical to file, (who otherwise would be responding himself were it not for......instead we have deodorant discussions about benzene)
A saw needs to be sharpened, and a file is what does it. If the saw can be sharpened with a file, the teeth can be cut with a file. The only things to be concerned about (😱) are tooth spacing and shape.
Valtitan files are fantastic! I have several of them and use them all the time on wood, silver and gold. Wonderful products! And the Valtitan files can be "liquid honed" by Boggs tools in California to resharpen them. Just thought I mention them too. Another great firm I can recommend...
And yes, 1095 blue tempered spring steel is easily filed with regular files (no need for Valtitan). I've used the 1095 stock from McMaster Carr to make saws and scrapers. Cheaper than buying masonry tools, imo. Do be careful when opening the package from McMaster! Spring steel wants to be flat, not wound up in the cardboard box in which it will arrive! They put a steel band around the coil, but it will rapidly uncoil when it is cut! Beware!
And although I learned about this too late for my saws, I've heard that the blued color of 1095 can be removed easily with citric acid.
Yeah, I get this. It's just you guys jump from a generic hardened steel to a saw plate and that's a bit too much of a leap for me. Not all saws are in a vicinity 50HRC, like, Crown Tools saws are perfectly filed with a needle file which can be bent and then straightened (case hardening I assume), whatever hardness this saw might have — it's in quite a low range. Good saws nevertheless. Vintage US and UK saws aren't that hard either, even cheap files cut them like a butter, and that's with all the work hardening over a century. Maybe LN or LV saws are hard, but they don't say numbers, LN says only that they're hardened as high as possible for a file to still cut.
But whatever, if people said they filed this particular steel from McMaster - this is good.