Wooden screw

Re: Wooden screw

Jack Dover

The company that made the vice would be my first attempt, assuming they're still in business.

If the screw is not completely separated I would attempt gluing a sliver in or maybe filling the kerf with epoxy mixed with sawdust, there's nothing to lose at this point I guess.

Re: Wooden screw

McKay

I made the vice

Re: Wooden screw

William Duffield

Have you checked with Lake Erie Toolworks?

Just emailed them. Thanks

Re: Wooden screw

AlanWS

Another option might be to contact Mike Siemsen at his woodworking school. He has students make these, and might sell you the screw. He says birch tends to cut better threads than maple.

Re: Wooden screw

McKay

Thanks. Do you have contact information?

Re: Wooden screw

McKay

Found it thanks

what's the pitch?

David Weaver

is it made from one of the modern 6 tpi thread boxes?

A few considerations.

Warren in Lancaster, PA

You can't just get another screw of the same nominal diameter and pitch and expect it to work with your nut. Different makers will have slightly different clearance and thread shape. So I would think you need both a screw and a nut. Or possibly a screw from the same manufacturer.

If I have an antique screw that is too damaged to repair, I usually carve a new one to fit the nut. I have done this many times over 45 years; let me know if you want some notes.

Paul Peters, Acer Ferrous Toolworks, makes custom screws. He is usually markets on the Red Rose Reproductions site, but I have his card with a phone number and email. His bench screws are exceptionally fine and are cheaper than Lake Erie.

Re: A few considerations.

Oskar

this is interesting Warren. Could you describe how you carve a fitting screw?

The larger screws...

David Weaver

..marketed now are turned on lathes or in purpose built fixtures with routers, nuts turned to match (it'd be a bit risky to buy one person's screw to match in a nut from another source).

The red rose site says that the large bench screws warren's describing are turned on a large monarch lathe (leaves a little mystery as to how they're cut, but the tool head may have a router affixed to make sure the cut can be made cleanly and quickly).

I'm sure some of the older ones were sawn and carved to a finish but would be surprised if many people make their own like that now.

Re: A few considerations.

Warren in Lancaster, PA

I have made screws to replace broken ones, so I have a sample in hand. I make a strip of paper of the appropriate width and wrap it around the shaft of the new screw. Then I make a pencil or knife line spiraling around the shaft following the strip. This line represents the top of the ridge or the center of the ridge for the screw. Most threads are somewhat flat topped for durability.

Next I cut a groove between the lines with a v (parting) tool. Alternatively I have cut a shallow kerf here with a backsaw. Then using a wide chisel I enlarge the V by paring down the slope of the thread. If the screw is secured, you can pare the same portion of every thread before turning the screw. Your eye can pick up small irregularities in the thread as you carve. I sometimes put the screw on the pole lathe and us a very fine file to smooth things out. This can be done on any lathe at very slow speeds.

Re: The larger screws...

Warren in Lancaster, PA

I have a 2 3/8 dogwood bench screw that was cut in a screw box. Screws made this way have a somewhat smoother surface, but the box and tap cost over 1000 euros. Screw boxes like this are illustrated in Plumier (1701) plate 55 and Roubo (1769) plate 311.

The Dominy tool collection has a screw box and two taps, a smaller metal tap and a larger diameter wooden tap. There were probably other tools in this set that are now missing.

Richard Starr wrote a long article in Fine Woodworking around 1978 detailing how to make wooden screw boxes and wooden taps. I think this article did not make it into the digital publishing of old magazines, unfortunately.

Large screws like for cider presses were 9-12" in diameter; I think they would have had to have been carved. I don't know how they made large nuts for these.

Re: A few considerations.

Oskar

thank you Warren! surely, having the old and broken screw at hand helps a lot.

Thank you. This helps a lot.