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I learned something from the sheffield...

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I learned something from the sheffield...

#1

I learned something from the sheffield...

David Weaver

...videos that were released in the last year.

I saw more than one cutler dimensioning and shaping an entire handle on a belt or wet wheel (using a wet silicon carbide wheel to dimension wood is definitely an interesting thing).

Yesterday, I was experimenting with two more chisels. The first is a 1095 chisel around 1/2 inch. I learned something from it - no taper and sooner or later the bolster moves. This isn't a surprise, but it moved more easily than I expected, so no more tangs without expanding taper (and I ordered some reclaimed wrought iron rod to try forge welding a bolster).

The second was, the easiest way to fit a handle is probably a coarse belt. The handle just comes to the tool in roughed shape, insert the chisel and then adjust the handle by. I got carried away, and one of the handles got a bit thin. I don't have dust collection in my shop and found a moderate upgrade 4x36 sander (direct drive type with double the belt speed and power of the typical hobbyist stuff) that has good dust collection with a fein vac.

In the pictures, you can see what looks like a gap at the bolsters, but it's not. That's just black sharpie to see how far and how fast the bolster moves (it's moved once and then not again, but I'm sure over time it won't hold up well and the advancing tang will split handles).

Rather than toss this chisel, though, I'll use it, and see what happens and how fast.

I didn't surface finish either of these chisels, so they're a bit sloppy after removing the oxidation (and the one on the right is long on handle and short on blade due to the fact that it's the front tip of a 12 1/2" half round file that already made a large chisel from the tang end. heller's half rounds taper in width and thickness and and only so much chisel can be made out of the front half before the tip gets too thin. This oddball has a big bolster on it that could probably be trimmed back a bit and refiled.

After trimming a couple of handles to the bolster with the belt sander (and then card scraping), I roughed out another 7 blanks. All of this took only about an hour. I think I could do it faster by hand if I had long stock to start with, but I didn't -these were all from short offcuts.



No clue what the brown wood is - it smells like cocobolo, but is a little lighter and less strong. Not a great handle wood, but I have it.


Re: I learned something from the sheffield...

#2

failed to mention...

David Weaver

..the lack of a table or anything usable on the belt sander (there is one, but I didn't put it on) makes it so that the roughing and fitting of these handles is freehand (including the octagonals). If it came to just jigging things up to chase geometric perfection, I'd lose interest. the challenge of getting faster and more even at doing this by eye makes it much more interesting.

I don't really like making the handles, but it's hard to use the chisels without them. The blanks make it so that they can either be sized down on a chisel as-is (and the ones that I have that are fat at the bolster end I can introduce to the belt sander and thin them now in a couple of minutes and make them a little more interesting), or they can be turned like the typical sheffield octagonal handles and a bolster added.

The beech handles are from the very first wooden plane I ever bought (a plane marked carpenter that I bought in lancaster, but that was the owner's name and not the maker's mark). It wasn't worth saving, but the front end had no cracks or checks, and it yielded 4 handles. Smelled like an antique mall when sanded, too.

Re: I learned something from the sheffield...

#3

Why not plane

Jack Dover

I know you have a small lathe, so turned handles make sense. But I wonder why would you shape a handle on a sander with all that dust and noise, when shaping a tapered octogonal handle isn't much harder than shaping a pencil. Is sander faster perhaps?

Re: I learned something from the sheffield...

#4

Faster for short bits

David Weaver

The sander is faster when the sticking is short. If I had longer pieces, I think planing would be quite a bit faster, but these are parts of small billets or in the case of the beech, the nose of an old plane split into four billets.

The thing I'm hoping to get from sizing them is freehand skill and eye because I can get an octagonal handle once the chisel is fitted to the handle, but with a pillow shaped profile along the length (so somewhat like the carver style of handle that's on a lot of parers - a cigar shape - but with facets).

The fitting and final sizing of the handle on the sander is more handy than the initial rough planing (a lot like an octagonal pencil, like you say - just drag the billet across a plane to knock the corners off).

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