Arts and Crafts style clock insert

Re: Arts and Crafts style clock insert *LINK*

Stephen Shepherd in the State of Deseret

>You might try Klockit.

Stephen


Klockit

Check this out *LINK*

Wiley Horne--So. Calif.

>Patrick,

Here is an outfit "ClockPrints" that makes and sells clock faces, and they have the ability to scale the clockface to your insert:

http://www.clockprints.com/

Here's another thing that might be of some interest. Schlabaugh & Sons sell finished clocks in Mission, Art Deco, and other styles. Might be worth a call to Iowa to see if you can get a lead on where to buy inserts with Mission faces:

http://missionartisan.com/listing.cfm?nlst=1&navl=1&cid=6

Wiley


'ClockPrints'--faces for clocks

Of course, you could, in the spirit of A&C, ... *LINK*

David Barnett - SW FL Gulf Coast

>...forego the drop-in inserts and craft your own clockface from lightweight copper sheet. Needn't be too complicated or artistic. Even a hammered texture with the cardinal points stamped, punched, or otherwise marked looks far richer and more authentic than the usual Klockit suspects (good source, though). Quartz clock movements are ubiquitous. Any crafts or fabric store should have them. And while you're at it, make the hands, too. It's easy.

If you're still with me, (I'll try to keep this simple) you can punch copper from the back for a raised effect (repousse) and clean up the edges from the front (chasing). Tools can be as simple as a rounded-over nail and a and smoothed screwdriver. The traditional method used pitch in a bowl to punch against*, but you can use various substitutes: repurposed hot glue, waxes, and mixtures of shellac, wax, brick dust, plaster, stale saltwater taffy, wet leather, wood, newsprint. Push out a design from the back, define from the front, anneal with a plumber's torch whenever the metal gets hard, pickle it if you have some citric acid (in water) or Real Lemon. Whatever works.

Round faces look nice lightly domed. Borders are attractive and easy on square or rectangular faces. When you're done, clean it with some vinegar and baking soda. Doesn't need to be shiny but bright is good. Rub a drop or two of peanut oil all over the front, then heat slowly over the stove until it starts to smoke. Remove from heat when a nice velvety brown is attained. Beeswax or RenWax and there you go.

Oh... and Google 'repousse' images for inspiration. Try Google books, too. And if you really want to know more, find a copy of "Copper Work" by Augustus Rose -- examples of simple but elegant A&C copper work for industrial arts classes. Really, kids can do this stuff.

The link shows some traditional punches and how to make them. Some are for lining and moving the metal, while others are polished for planishing.

*BTW, the idea is to move the metal rather than thin and stretch it. Once you get the hang of it, it's addictive. If you need more details, let me know. And don't forget eye protection.


Repouss� and Chasing Tools

Re: Of course, you could, in the spirit of A&C, ..

Patrick Wheatley

>Light weight copper sheet you say? Now that sounds a lot more like what I was looking for. I spent a long time looking through the various web sites posted (thanks a lot for the information, it certainly opened my eyes to what is possible) and nothing struck me as "the one".

Of course the gauntlet was thrown when you had to point out that even a kid could do it. I will have to buy the movement and figure out the mechanics of it all. Whether I have to build a box for it or if I can go with my original (well, not so original but inspiration from other A&C clocks) idea using solid 8/4 pieces of wood for the bodies.

My wife will not be too happy that I will be putting off her dresser yet again but if I can get one made for Christmas then I can make more for next year.

Thanks for all the help!

Re: Of course, you could, in the spirit of A&C, .. *LINK*

Wiley Horne--So. Calif.

>Patrick,

Link below may have some ideas for you. Like that Dard Hunter clock, and down below the Dard Hunter letter/number font that you can just about copy straight from the website.

Anyway, the link is rich in Mission style themes.

Wiley


Fairoak--Mission style crafts

More stuff... *LINK*

David Barnett - SW FL Gulf Coast

>A tip on the peanut oil patina: use the tiniest amount of oil to create a film before heating your copper. You don't want it wet at all.

If you're considering this route, here's a grab bag of more links.

REPOUSSE ARTICLES

Charles Lewtin-Brain, from Ganoksin.com:

Some Basic notes on Chasing Tools

http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/chasing.htm

Making a Chasing or forming tool

http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/chasing_forming_tool.htm

Pitch Bowls and Alternatives for Jewelers

http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/jeweler-pitch.htm

Goldsmiths pitch options

http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/pitch_opt.htm

Charles' website

http://www.brainpress.com/

Valentin Yotkov, from Ganoksin.com:

Ornamental chasing and repouss�

http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/chasing_and_repousse.htm

Valentin's website

http://www.valentinyotkov.com/

Brehpol on Chasing and Repouss�

http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/repousse.htm

STUDIOS, FORUMS, WEBSITES

Metal Chasing Forum

http://www.metalchasing.com/forum/index.php?s=6721ce44a93816c93cd4 3a9e0647dd1e

http://www.artmetal.com/og/repousse_chasing

http://www.ganoksin.com/ Orchid Digest & Archives

http://www.repoussetools.com/

http://www.dellaterrastudios.com/repoussetools.htm

http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&rlz=1C1GGLS_enUS328US328&q=r

epousse%20tools&revid=779039135&resnum=0&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi

http://www.hillhouse-antiques.co.uk/images/waltonmantleclock2.JPG

http://www.roycroftcampuscorporation.com/httpdocs/events_courses/a

rtisan_classes_archive.html

http://geraldtobola.com/about.htm

http://www.brentberryarts.com/repousse.htm

http://www.rocioheredia.com/

YOUTUBE

Valentin Yotkov

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cs4bMGhHruI

Davide Bigazzi

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YAIwQzmn7E&feature=related

Tango dancers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgmBC27gtkk&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_coiziV804

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHIRZ44MGjo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RTDNrtQ_XPg

SUPPLIERS

Copper:

METALLIFEROUS - rounds, squares, rectangles, sheet, etc.

http://www.metalliferous.com/pdf/Base_Metal/copper_raw_materials.pdf

http://www1.mscdirect.com/ page 1735 of the Big Book

http://www.stormcopperstore.com/copper-sheet.html (no 22 gauge, however)

http://business.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=copper+sheet&_sacat=29402&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_odkw=&_osacat=29402 (pays to look)

Pitch:

http://www.northwestpitchworks.com/ esp. medium grade

http://www.ottofrei.com/store/product.php?productid=7602&cat=0&page=1

Allcraft

35 W 29th St # 205, New York, NY 10001, (212) 279-7077, ask for

Tevel Herbstman if the clerk isn't sure what pitch you want (red German pitch)

Square bar cold-drawn tool steel W1:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1735&PMT4NO=73233257&PMT4TP=*ITPD&PMITEM=40100505&PMCTLG=00

http://www.flat-stock.com/~store/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD

&Store_Code=T&Product_Code=PM-W1&Category_Code=PMDR

BOOKS

http://www.gustavslibrary.com/metalworkjewelry.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Chasing-Repouss%C3%A9-Nancy-Megan-Corwin/dp/1929565321/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1256665438&sr=1-24 (newest book on repousse)

http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/1929565054/186-5771280-9934250?SubscriptionId=0N1YGFKC9QHMHQ9QTDR2 (general small-scale metalsmithing)


Glasgow school clock

You can still use solid wood...

David Barnett - SW FL Gulf Coast

>No need to make a box for the quartz movements. You can mortise or rout (with a #71, of course) a squarish hole, bore the hole for the hands and you're there. And on the subject of hands: if you dome the face, match the curvature on the hands for a finished look.

And doming: you can whack your sheet with a round-faced mallet into a firm sofa cushion (or doggie bed or stack of carpet squares or whatever) in lieu of the more traditional shot or sandbag. Sinking is acceptable, too, but is usually for deeper contours. I have a stump with various hollowed curvatures, but this is overkill for clockfaces. Start from the outside or the center for each course of blows. Once you get the overall shape, you can planish with a light flat-faced hammer (polished is nice) using the the same rounded mallet as a stake.

I included a couple more remarks in my reply to Wiley, but it hasn't shown up yet - I got a message that it would have to pass moderator scrutiny (must've forgot my email address or something). Anyway, it tells how to transfer laser print toner to copper for easy layout.

Enough for now.

I'll second that, Wiley------WebKitFormBoundaryouk

David Barnett - SW FL Gulf Coast------WebKitFormBo

>Dard Hunter was my prime influence on crafts eclecticism, esp. papermaking and book arts. I was given several unprinted sheets of his handmade papers and I own a few of the Roycrofters books with his papers and watermarks.

Maybe I should mention that if laser printing can be transferred to copper by rubbing the non-toner side with acetone. If you are working first from the back, you'll need to reverse the image, of course. It's an easier way to lay out clock faces than backwards lettering, heh.

And maybe a caveat, too. Beating copper (and silver) can lead to compulsive switchplate and outlet plate covering, street numbers, nameplates, drawer pulls and hardware. It never ends. I can hardly make anything from wood that doesn't incorporate metals or glass or stone or leather or any combination thereof. And not even in the A&C style.

------WebKitFormBoundaryouk0Lo+VBxyyYjxY

Regarding the message that got hung up

Wiley Horne--So. Calif.

>It's posted up above, David.

Your message was ensnared by the 'WebKitFormBoundary' demon, which tells you that you need Moderator approval. This only happens to Safari users, as far as I know.

When you see that Moderator Approval thing, just hit the back arrow, and you will be returned to what you just wrote--submit it again. If it doesn't fly this time, submit it again. Usually it will fly on the 2nd or 3rd try. Happens to me all the time.

Wiley

Re: Regarding the message that got hung up

David Barnett - SW FL Gulf Coast

>Ah... I had to ask someone what Safari is, so it isn't just limited to that. I use Internet Explorer or Google Chrome under WindowsXP. I'll be vigilant from here on out, though. Thanks!

Re: More stuff...

Patrick Wheatley

>wow, that is a lot of information!

I am now in trouble. After flipping through several of these sites I can see that this is something that will certainly take up even more time. My wife will not be happy ;-)

Some how I don't think those Christmas present will get done this year. No point making something now that I know I can do a better job on once I absorb all of this information and make some trial pieces.

Thanks again. If anything turns out photo worthy I will post some end result pics.

Thanks to all

Patrick Wheatley

>I would like to thank all of you who posted with information. I have yet another skill to try my hand at. If the copper work turns out well I might just have to incorporate copper in all of my pieces!

If my mantle clock turns out ok I might even post some photos...don't hold your breath though, my wife really wants a dresser more than a clock.

Pat