Blue Spruce Chisels

"guilt" by association

Bill Tindall, E.TN

>I have one of his marking knives and it is first class in workmanship as well as function. I would presume the chisels would be equally high quality. Why not buy one and see how you like it?

What is best in a chisel may be more difficult to generically define than for many tools. I dislike a long chisel while most people prefer a long chisel. I like the feel of the Sorby in my hand and much less so the two cherries, while others would disagree. I find the dinky handles of Japanese chisels annoying and uncomfortable. Some insist on a socket chisel, while others are ambivalent. And after considering the handle, length, side bevel, etc., then there is the steel which is a significant variable. What steel is it and how was it heat treated? The steel in my Sorby's does well for paring and poorly for chopping, while the Two Cherries is better for chopping, at least at the angle I have it sharpened at. The 3V is best of all but we won't reopen that discussion.

The bottom line is that a chisel may be the most personal tool in the shop and I would not venture a recommendation to someone else. Well, I do dislike every attribute of my blue handled chisels except the price when I bought them, not knowing any better, so I would not recommend them to anyone.

Re: Blue Spruce Chisels

"RJ" Whelan

>Kris ... I have a scratch awl, marking knife and three chisels (1/4 - 3/8 - 1/2) and I love them all. Be aware, these are paring chisels - don't plan on striking them.

If you want chisels you can hit I'd recommend the LN's - I have a complete set of these and find them to be as good, or better, than any others I've owned or tried.

Japanese chisels are also excellent, but there is such a large price disparity between the lower and super high priced tools I can't really tell you how to choose. Most of mine are in the $30-45 range and other than the occassional chip from over-zealous pounding I've been very pleased with them.

rj

I'm "guilty" too...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>I have 2 of his marking knkifes as well. Excellent is all I can say. I've heard good things about his chisels as well. I don't think you can go wrong with them if your looking for paring chisels.

Re: Blue Spruce Chisels

Jim Shaver Oakville, Ontario

>I own several of Blue Spruce Toolworks chisels. Aside from the wonderful marking knives and awls, I have a set of skew chisels and a set of the DT chisels. These are as mentioned used in a paring process, not for striking.

I would add these chisels as a compliment a more all purpose set that you can strike with.

I am very happy with the tools from BSTW, but I use them for paring only.

I did ask Dave to make me a set of BSTW handels to replace the ones on my LN set, I like his handle design better than the LN version, he did and his work is wonderful to hold in your hand even with a LN chisel on the end.

:-)

Take care,

Jim

Re: Blue Spruce Chisels

Ray Binnicker

>Hey Kris,

I have been a fan of the old Stanley Everlast for a long time and own at least a dozen different sizes. I did buy a set of used Barr from Chris Schwartz and "like them a whole lot". I know I would be equally happy with the LN. I tend to do more pounding than paring and the Everlast and the Barr let me do that.

Ray Binnicker

Re: Blue Spruce Chisels

Wiley Horne -- So. Calif.

>Kris,

I have a suggestion and it involves a bit of postponed gratification, though not too much. What Bill T. said about chisels being personal is so true--and not just because of aesthetic preferences, but also because of what you make with them, and how you like to work.

I suggest you make a short list of makers you're interested in, and get one chisel from each of them. Use those chisels for a while, and see which ones you gravitate to for which operations; which you like, what you like and don't like about each one; and which ones you find yourself just picking up or not picking up for whatever reason--or for no reason at all.

A couple of anecdotes to illustrate what I mean. I like Japanese chisels for most things. I ordered a 3/8" fishtail from Chutaro Imai for getting into half-blind dovetail sockets. Turns out that's my favorite chisel (along with a 30mm Funahiro) for all kinds of things--I had no idea it would be, but it's just the one I tend to grab for, and don't even know why.

I have a 15mm Tasai veri-thin, and don't use it too much, although it has wonderful balance, but there are places I can get into with it, where nothing else will go. So I have to have that chisel.

I have one of Dave Jeske's detail chisels--the dovetail chisel. The 3/8" one. I use paring chisels mainly for dovetails, because I saw (rather than chop) the waste wherever possible, but I like longer paring chisels. BUT. Dave's 3/8" detail chisel is the best straight carving chisel I could imagine. So when it's time to cut the little miter on the cockbeading of a drawer, or clean up the intersection where a table leg swells into a 'therm foot'--that chisel becomes all-important. It's a fantastic detail chisel, or straight carving chisel.

I recently received from a friend a two-foot long Japanese slick, owned by a sawmaker over there. It ain't no fancy-dan tool, as far as I know. It's a trade tool, which is saying it's pretty good. But there is so much control in a long chisel like that, that you can fence the blade with your hand, and use it like a block plane to run chamfers. The control is unbelievable on a long chisel--you have to experience it.

So what am I saying? Just this--there are a jillion different situations. You yourself will find yourself in a half-jillion different situations. There's no way to predict ahead of time what tools you will prefer for those situations. But I would bet one thing for sure: the chisels you pick up will not all come out of one set. No. They'll come from different makers, and probably be very different from each other. Sets are way overrated.

That's why I say, start out eclectic and you'll learn something. Start out with a set, and you're locked in by the dollars you've got committed. And you're locked in before you know very much about what your eventual preferences will turn out to be.

2 cents.

Wiley

One other thing I meant to say

Wiley Horne -- So. Calif.

>Dave Jeske is synonymous with quality. Everything the man does is outstanding. I wouldn't trade his marking knives for any knives. Also, he will work with you, if you have special wood you'd like him to use, for example, or some sort of custom detail. He's a person you want to have a long-term relationship with.

I wish Dave would go back at some point to cutting gauges--I really want one of his cutting gauges he made several years ago.

So whatever you decide to do, I suggest you get at least one of his chisels, or else a knife. It'll be a no-regret purchase.

Wiley

Re: Blue Spruce Chisels

John Vancil

>Hi Kris and guys, according to Dave at Blue Spruce Tools his chisels are made for dovetails and other light and medium duty work to include paring and striking. He stands behind his work. Last April I went to the Lie-Nielsen tool event at Portland Oregon where I bought my chisel set. I asked Dave if the chisels were to be for paring only. He picked up a chisel and a carving mallet and put it on a hardwood block on his bench gave it about six hard strikes and handed me the chisel and mallet to inspect. The mallet was weighted and the chisel was no worse for ware. I have used my chisel set for several projects and they are as good as new.Personally I wouldn't use my morticing mallet because the face tends to be rough. My other chisels have been getting alot of rest lately. My Blue Spruce are not only beautiful they are a joy to use. CHEERS JOHN!

Re: One other thing I meant to say ...

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>I would like to reinforce everything that Wiley has said.

About two years ago I was contemplating a set of new chisels for dovetails, and tossing up between the LN and BS. Both are very nicely balanced chisels in the hand. This is a very important factor for me as I prefer to pare when I can. The BS handles are slightly longer than those on the LN (although LN do sell a "paring" set, which are the same length and design as Japanese slicks). For me the LN handles were just too short for ultimate comfort, and BS handles just looked "right". So I took a chance and ordered the BS (well, I couldn't try them out beforehand). It was the right decision.

The personal nature of this is something I want to emphasize. One man's meat and all that ... I asked Dave to make me a 3/4" chisel. At the time he did not offer this option. He had this request from another a few months earlier on, and there remained a blade he could use. This was duly made up and sent to me. I returned it. Where the blade thickness for chisels 1/8" through 1/2" is 1/8", he made the 3/4" longer and out of 3/16" thick steel. The balance was terrible (for me - the other person loved his). Dave acknowledged this (no fuss no arguments) and made another that was shorter and 1/8". Perfect!

These are really great chisels. I reserve them for detail work, such as cleaning up dovetails. They get very sharp and hold a great edge. I was concerned about the use of A2 steel at first, since the recommended bevel angle is 30 degrees - higher than the (O1) Berg parers I am used to using. But I reasoned that this is the same as my Japanese chisels, and they do not suffer from being ground at that angle.

I do think that LN chisels are also highly recommendable. I would consider them if one wanted an allrounder, a chisel that you could slam with a mallet as well as use to pare. My BS with their African Blackwood handles will not see the end of a mallet! If you want to go down this road you might get Dave Jeske to make up a set of handles as he made for Jim - these have got to be one of the most beautiful chisel handles I have ever seen. Jim, you must post a picture here!

Here is a picture of the BS handle against a Stanley #750 (I don't have an LN but the Stanley is the basis of the LN):

And the inevitable gloat :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

I'm not surprised with pounding result

Bill Tindall, E.TN

>I made some tanged chisels like the Blue Spruce and I pound them vigorously with no ill effects. If one uses a hard rubber mallet instead of the traditional, and noisy, wooden mallet the chisel end doesn't get bruised. There should be no reservations about a tanged chisel being able to accommodate striking for typical dovetail and hinge mortise waste removal.

Additional benefits of tanged chisels are that they are easy to fabricate if you want to make your own, and the handle doesn't fall off when the humidity drops.

My BSTW Handels on my LN's>pics

Jim Shaver Oakville, Ontario

>Hi Derek,

I had the same thoughts about handles as you, dave's were perfect for my hand for paring. My thoughts turned to a set of LN's I had, I seldom used them as they didn't feel the way I wanted in my hand. When I got the BSTW DT chisels a light went on in my head and I thought that I would ask Dave if he could make a set for me.

Dave sent me a set made of African black wood, to match the set I had already from him.

This shows the side by side difference, I love the feel. I will not strike these handles, but if I need to I can simply exchange the handle with a hornbeam original and complete the process.

If you are interested I would send Dave an email or give him a call, every one who has tried my LN's with his handles loves them.

I have no financial interest in these handles, I just love them.

Take care,

Jim

Re: One other thing I meant to say ...

Kris Lasure

>Thanks for all the great info, fella's. Looking at some of the other offerings from Blue Spruce makes their products very tempting! The lack of anything larger than 1/2" chisel concerned me at first, but knowing now that Dave would possibly be willing to make say lie a 3/4" is assuring.

Decisions, decisions, decisions. Although I don't mind having this tough of decision to make :)

Now all I have to do is finish my tool cabinet. I told myself that I would not buy any more hand tools until my cabinet was finished. Nothing like a little motivation now to get it done. A little more sanding and I'm ready for finish.

Although I did receive a LN 60 1/2 block plane as a Christmas gift. Man, what a tool that is! So it definitely needs a good place to be stored along with my pending chisel purchase.

I'll post an update later on. Thanks again!

kl

Re: One other thing I meant to say ...

"RJ" Whelan

>Kris ... one piece of unsolicited advice on the tool cabinet.

Make it larger than you ever think you'll need: chisels, planes and layout tools are like bunnies - they multiply and soon outgrow their home.

rj

He offers larger ones... *LINK*

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>5/8 and 3/4" in the paring chisels.

Man, now I want a set dammit...




BSTW

See what I started...

Kris Lasure

>maybe since I brought more attention to BSTW, I'll get a discount.

HAHA!! :)

Incredibly sage advice...

Bob Hackett

>as always Wiley.

One other thing you forgot to mention.If you store your chisels so the blade is covered(which is probably a good idea for safety if nothing else)and not at all visible then an eclectic collection lets you know what size and shape you`re picking up just by the handle.A small but handy point.

Mainely,Bob

Re: Blue Spruce Chisels

ThomD

>I have the Barrs ( along with tons of Japanese etc...) I use them a lot, and I used them for demos where they were less offputting than Japanese ones costing 350 each. I have the Beckvorst size ones, and they are a very convenient chisel for dovetailing and so forth. The steel is pro grade but won't win any contests, on the other hand it is very easy to cycle, it doesn't dull in the middle of several jobs unless they are very hard woods, but when it goes, I am back at it in the time someone else migh take getting to their stones. I often reach for the Barrs even though my Japanese chisels are racked at the same height... Then I feel guilty and wonder what is wrong with me.

Actually I would go for something like 750s. Cast Steel is generally very pro. Easy to sharpen and works hard. I haven't used those ones specifically but some 100 plus year old chisels are likely to be better than anything you can get today, except japanese chisels, and that is a whole other level of thing.

The biggest problem with Japanese chisels is I don't really have anything to use them for, in 30 years of taking FWW and going to shows etc... I haven't really seen a project that required/needed them either. The heaviest stuff I do is dovetails, cut in the western style that doesn't really require the kind of fuss one hears about, and hard woods cut cleanly with a paint stick. Talk to people who use this stuff 20 years after they first "got it" and the fact that the tools carried them, no longer seems real. When you are first struggling into it, and get some good tools and your skills grow, it seems like a partneship, but it's really all in the hands. Of course the Japanese chisels are great too, but it does tend to grow into a fettish all it's own, which is fine if you wanted to go there, but your OP suggests you don't.

Planing a super finish on softwood so it looks like polished bone. That's something you need a Japanese plane for (or something of that efficiency), but as far as the rest of it is concerned...

Clarification?

wilbur

>"The biggest problem with Japanese chisels is I don't really have anything to use them for, in 30 years of taking FWW and going to shows etc... I haven't really seen a project that required/needed them either."

I think I'm missing something here, Thom. If you routinely used Japanese chisels, couldn't you also say, "The biggest problem with western chisels is I don't really have anything to use them for" ?

In my shop, the only chisels I have are Japanese chisels, although I bet I have nowhere near the number that you or many other WC members have. So for me, any project requiring a chisel means using a Japanese chisel.